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Scharf, mit alles... - Gasterntal

First ascent: Markus Stofer & Bernd Rathmayr 2007. First free ascent Stofer & Rathmayr 23/01/2010
By: Planetmountain
Area: Swiss Alps, Group: Kandersteg, Peak: Gasterntal, Height: 1450m, Country: Switzerland

Scharf, mit alles… is an interesting and unusual ice climb for the Bernese Oberland,  with almost 600m of vertical height gain (and 1000m of climbing) it is one of the longest climbs of this genre in the Alps, ascending four distinct rock bands with difficulties up to WI6 M8.

GETTING THERE

Reach Kandersteg in Switzerland, circa 60km south of Bern.

ACCESS

Kandersteg - Sunnbüel - Gasterntal - Waldhaus - take fork for Balmhornhütte. Continue right through beach and fir tree forest to reach the start of the gully. 1.25 hours.

ROUTE

Check the topo for information about the pitches

DESCENT

Abseil down the route (see topo) or descend westwards on foot down steep slopes to the Waldhaus.

GEAR

1 x70m + 1 x 60m rope or 2 x 60m ropes (beware, P14 is 60m long!). Full ice climbing rack, Friends 0.5 - 3, mid siez nuts, emergency bolt kit for abseiling down the second band.

NOTES

The route is exposed to avalanches.
It was on-sighted on 24/01/2010 by by Nicolas Jacquet and Laurin Wiesmeier.

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DIFFICULTY

WI6 M8

LENGTH

600m

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