New Dolomite rock climbs on Cason de Formin
Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).
Alpinists from Cortina have always held Cason de Formin in high esteem and this beautiful peak overlooking the Formin valley offers climbing in a fairy tale environment where time seems to stand still. As early as 1930 Angelo Dibona was attracted to Cima Cason and it was he who traced the first route up this rock face. In the years that followed a series of other talented Cortina climbers established more beautiful routes up this peak, some of which are practically unknown, others of which have become true classics such as the corner Diedro Dallago. This summer the Scoiattolo climber Massimo Da Pozzo, aka as “Mox”, identified two possible new lines and he promptly set to work to forge Buon compleanno Nat and La beffa.
Buon compleanno Nat - Happy Birthday Nat
Buon compleanno Nat is the name given to the July 2012 route up Cason de Formin established by tireless Massimo Da Pozzo together with another “Scoiattolo”, Marco Alberti “Panza” and their friend Danilo Serafini, with whom Mox had established via Zoe up Lastoni di Formin. At the time Mox dedicated the route to his young daughter Zoe, while this latest addition celebrates the birthday of his wife Natasha.
The route climbs the NE Face of Cima Cason de Formin, a sub summit of Croda da Lago, up the yellow face which might lead some to believe that the rock is poor quality as is often the case in the Dolomites, but not so here: in general the rock is very solid although as usual some cleaning is necessary.
La beffa - the joke
Established by Massimo Da Pozzo and Pier Francesco Smaltini in September 2012, La beffa (the joke) gets it's name from the fact that the drill batteries dies two bolts short of the summit, forcing Mox to return to finish off his route. The most demanding pitches climb yellow, good quality rock. All belays are equipped with two bolts and an abseil ring. The grades are indicative and need confirming.
TOPO: Buon compleanno Nat, Cima Cason de Formin, Dolomites
TOPO: La Beffa, Cima Cason de Formin, Dolomites