Diedro Dallago - Cima Cason di Formin
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Planetmountain
This solid 4+ takes the large corner that unfortunately is prone to seepage after rain. The only difficult section (5) on the first pitch can be avoided by starting 20m to the left and climbing up the series of small ledges directly to the first stance.
Approach the Cima Cason di Formin by driving towards Passo Giau from Cortina and parking the car in Rucurto. Take the signposted path no. 437 to the rifugio Palmieri and turn off at the fork with the no. 435 for the Val Formin.
AccessTake the signposted path no. 437 to the rifugio Palmieri and turn off at the fork with the no. 435 for the Val Formin. Continue until this levels out beneath the wall, and then walk up the scree slope to the start at the chimney crack beneath the large corner. Allow about an hour for the walk-in.
DescentExit from the corner and climb up, traversing right to a loose gully. Ascend this and reach a wedged block; climb past this (grade 5, pegs) and then walk down towards the lake and the slopes grassy below, before heading. left to the saddle, which leads to another gully and then quickly down the side of the mountain to the base of the route. As an alternative to the loose gully, climb the wall to the left.
GearA set of wires, friends and plenty of kevlar threads.
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