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Hans Kammerlander
Photo by arch. H. Kammerlander
Hans Kammerlander
Photo by arch. H. Kammerlander
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Hans Kammerlander climbs Mount Tyree and becomes first to climb Second Seven Summits

05.01.2012 by Planetmountain

On 3 January Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander reached the summit of Mount Tyree (Antarctic). In doing so he has become the first person to climb the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents.

Hans Kammerlander remains true to himself. Two days ago he reached the 2852m high summit of Mount Tyree in Antactica and in doing so he completed his special journey across the 7 second highest peaks on all seven continents. This is a somewhat particular journey seeing that, alpinists and laymen alike, know of the fourteen 8000ers and also the Seven Summits - the seven highest peaks of each continent - but almost no one has ever been interested in the world's second highest peaks. This idea, invented by Kammerlander himself, speaks volumes about the 55-year-old ace alpinist's creativity, about his simple, sincere style as well as his unbridled love for the mountains.

The first step in this journey - project, which obviously includes a pinch of irony - was taken on the 8610m high K2, the 8000er which many rightly consider the hardest of the world's fourteen highest mountains. But the project only took form in 2009 when the alpinist from Acereto in the South Tyrol climbed Ojos del Salado (6893m), the second highest mountain in South America, followed by Mount Kenya which at 5199m is second only to the king of Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro.

Kammerlander's journey continued in 2010 with the ascent of the extremely cold Mount Logan (5959m) and "Russian" Dychtau (5204m), the second highest peaks in North America and Europe. In April 2011 Kammerlander ascended Puncak Trikora, the 4730m high giant of Indonesia (Oceania). And, last but not least, two days ago he ascended Mount Tyree (4852m), a difficult mountain lost in the Antarctic desert, 13km NW of the higher Mount Vison. This may explain why this mountain is rarely ascended, and Kammerlander & Co's ascent is the 8th overall (the last was carried out 15 years ago).

So Hans Kammerlander is the first to have climbed the Seven second summits. Those who have had the chance to watch one of his packed evening shows cannot fail to remember the smile which accompanied the project. Some might even have believed it to be a joke. But on closer inspection, this great journey hides much more. For example, it underlines his immense renunciation, his decision to not climb all fourteen 8000ers.

This came about in 2001. Kammerlander had just climbed K2 (for the record, his first in the "second summit list") together with Jean Christophe Lafaille. T o those who asked him whether he would complete the run on Manaslu, he immediately replied no. Because on that mountain, during an attempt in 1991, he had lost Grossrubatscher and Mutschlechner, his climbing partners and close friends. This renunciation seemed almost revolutionary, something unique and rare in this world of alpinism. Kammerlander has always remained true to his word and in doing so he renounced something which was practically taken for granted. This is another reason why these "second summits" certainly aren't merely something invented to enter the Guinness book of world records (a glance at Kammerlander's curriculum suffices to understand this). On the contrary, once again his comes across as a great lesson in alpinism, in how to enjoy and experience it to the full.


Hans Kammerlander and his Seven Second Summits – the 7 second highest mountains on all 7 continents
2001 K2 (8611m), Pakistan (Asia), via Cesen, with Jean- Christophe Lafaille
2009 Ojos del Salado (6893m), Chile (South America), with Toni Mutschlechner
2009 Mount Kenya (5199m), Kenya (Africa), west face with with Konrad Auer
2010 Mount Logan (5959m), Alaska (Nord America), with Konrad Auer
2010 Dychtau (5204m), Russia (Europe), with Florian Kern
2011 Puncak Trikora (4730m), Indonesia (Oceania)
2012 Monte Tyree (4852m), (Antarctic)


- 03/04/2000 Hans Kammerlander, One of the driving forces in the mountaineering world.

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