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The immense gritstone outcrop Stanage Edge, with over 1300 routes dating all the way back to 1890.
The immense gritstone outcrop Stanage Edge, with over 1300 routes dating all the way back to 1890.
Photo by Alessandro Baù
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Stanage Edge, rock climbing in England

23.06.2009 by Planetmountain

Stanage Edge is the most famous gritstone crag in England. Located in the Peak District National Park, this 7km outcrop hosts over 1300 climbs of all grades.

The immense 7km long Stanage Edge is certainly the most famous gritstone crag in England. The outcrop is highly popular, partly because of its proximity to both Sheffield and Manchester, but above all due of its wealth of quality routes. The first climbs date all the way back to 1890 and over 1300 routes have now been established along the edge, ranging from Moderate to desperate E8 - enough to last a lifetime!

The vast majority of routes are relatively easy and ideal therefore for beginners as they tend to follow well-protected crack lines. Having said that, the smooth faces and rounded arête are a brilliant natural playground for those in search of quality testpieces.

Climbers visiting the area for the first time shouldn't miss out on the Flying Buttress at the Popular End and the routes on High Neb. Joe Brown's Right Unconquerable HVS 5a is the classic route of the crag, but Quietus E2 5c and Old Friends E4 5c are equally famous. The stunning barn door arête Archangel E3 5b at Goliath's Groove is psychologically demanding while its neighbour Ulysses E6 6b is a rite of passage to the upper extremes.

The highly popular Plantation area hosts some of the finest and most famous boulder problems in the country, such as the dream crescendio Crescent Arete Fb 5+, Not to be Taken Away Fb6c, The Green Traverse Fb7a, Brad Pitt Fb7c+ and Jerry Moffat's The Joker Fb 8a.

The outcrop varies in height up to 25m and due to its hilltop location can, at times, be extremely windy and cold. Luckily Hathersage with its warm cafes and welcoming pubs is nearby.

ROCK CLIMBING AT STANAGE, ENGLAND

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