The routes

38
Routes in archive
Afa
Climbing routes
Afa - Rocca dei Campanili
6b+ S1/ II
Beautiful climb, slightly more difficult than nearby Trial.
Alpstation Isera
Climbing routes
Alpstation Isera - Rocca La Meya
7a
First ascended by Ezio Marlier and Elisabetta Caserini, this route takes a line close to those climbed by Cesare Ravaschietto and Fabio Vivalda on what is often described as being one of the most beautiful rock faces in Piemonte, both...
Angels and Demons
Climbing routes
Angels and Demons - Caporal
8a+
An absolute masterpiece on Caporal, initiated in 2005 by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina and then abandoned after Farina's untimely death. Acting on Marlier's invitation, Federica Mingolla and Leo Ghezza completed the route in 2020 and Mingolla made the...
Cadarese Hot Spring
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cadarese Hot Spring - Val d'Ossola
II/4+ 5
Obvious drip, clearly visible from the road which leads to Val Formazza. The icefall offers interesting, pleasant climbing close to a granite quarry and close to the Premia spa at Cadarese.
Cascata delle miniere
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cascata delle miniere
V/3+ - 4/R
A route which rarely comes into condition. The ice is thin in places and this renders the climb demanding despite the fact that there are few vertical sections. The route faces south, takes a line up massive rock gradients and...
Cascata di Rochemolles
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cascata di Rochemolles - Vallone di Rochemolles
III/3+
Beautiful icefall which unfortunately cannot be climbed very often as the right conditions are dictated by a series of different variables. The icefall can only be climbed in safety after an extended freeze and little fresh snow on the upper...
Ciao TFR
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ciao TFR
III/4
Short climb up a nice drip on the second pitch, in the unique Piantonetto surroundings. The climb necessitates long cold spells to come into condition. Those wishing to continue can combine it with the nearby route Incontro Generazionale.Details about a...
Così parlò Zarathustra (Una via per tutti e nessuno)
Climbing routes
Così parlò Zarathustra (Una via per tutti e nessuno) - Trono di Osiride
7c
Così parlò Zarathustra is a beautiful rock climb that ascends the obvious corner up Trono di Osiride, first ascended with the use of aid in 183 by Daniele Caneparo and Isidoro Meneghin. Ignored for many years, the route was climbed...
Due bottoni nel pozzo
Climbing routes
Due bottoni nel pozzo - Rocca dei Campanili
7b, S1/ II
The first two pitches are demanding although somewhat sweeter thanks to the excellent bolting. The rock on pitches 2, 3 and 5 is outstanding!
Duel
Climbing routes
Duel - Altrolato
7a+
Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing.
Ecofly
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ecofly - Valle Argentera
WI5+, M7
This mixed climb rarely comes into condition. Located to the left of Coboldo Caustico, it shares the the first pitch and a half. The mixed section is protected with bolts and breaches good quality rock. However, as always take great care...
End of the Flare
Climbing routes
End of the Flare
E5 6b (7a+)
End of the Flare climbs the prominent flake offwidth crack seen from the road close to Fornolosa. The first pitch is hidden in the trees and offers powerful and pumpy climbing.
Eterni Peter Pan
Climbing routes
Eterni Peter Pan - Rocca La Meya
TD 6a+
First ascended by Ezio Marlier and Elisabetta Caserini, this route takes a line close to those climbed by Cesare Ravaschietto and Fabio Vivalda on what is often described as being one of the most beautiful rock faces in Piemonte, both...
Fat Tony
Climbing routes
Fat Tony
E6 6b (7c)
Fat Tony climbs the leftwards diagonal crack with great difficulty until the roof is reached. After bathanging, continue to glory...!
Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi
Climbing routes
Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi - Sergent
6a+
A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...
Il lato oscuro
Climbing routes
Il lato oscuro - Sergent
II/S2+/6c max
Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.


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