Castello di Vallesinella,Brenta Dolomites, Marco Cordin, Martino Piva

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Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana - Castello di Vallesinella

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Marco Cordin

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The first ascent of 'Nunca con prisa, siempre con gana' on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites (Marco Cordin, Martino Piva 31/12/2023)

archivio Marco Cordin

Beauty

First ascent

Marco Cordin, Martino Piva 31/12/2023

Marco Cordin

Length

120m

Difficulty

M9 WI5+

Departure

Madonna di Campiglio

Route

An incredible line up Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites, on absolutely amazing rock. Logical, elegant and short. The route follows a crack that takes plenty of pro and which allowed us to make the first ascent onsight.

Getting there

Reach Madonna di Campiglio.

Access

The approach is the same as for the Principessa winter crag: follow the summer path that from the top of the lifts (Rifugio Stoppani) leads towards the Tuckett hut. Just before starting the last short descent that leads to the Principessa crag, take the left fork towards Cima Grostè. At this point the route is located right in front of you. 40 minutes from the top of the lifts

Itinerary

P1: WI4+, 30m
P2: WI5, 30m. Bolt belay
P3: M7+, 30m
P4: M9, 30m. Bolt belay

Gear

The route can be protected entirely with cams thanks to the perfect crack that it follows. Take 2 sets of Totem cams.

Notes

The central drip was climbed in two pitches by Andrea Speziali.

Maps/Bibliography

46.198826, 10.891757