Cima Falkner, Brenta Dolomites, Federico Asciolla, Enrico Lovato

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Il Cigno Nero - Cima Falkner

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The first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' on Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites (Federico Asciolla, Enrico Lovato 05/01/2024)

archivio Enrico Lovato

Beauty

First ascent

Federico Asciolla, Enrico Lovato 05/01/2024

Orientation

Length

320m

Difficulty

5+, M7, 40°

Departure

Madonna di Campiglio

Route

Cigno Nero, the black swan, climbs a logical line up the ice of the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites.

Getting there

Park at the Fortini cable car in Madonna di Campiglio.

Access

Take the cable car (opens at 8.30am) to reach Rifugio Stoppani. Alternatively sleep at the Stoppani hut or the Graffer hut for an early start. Ascend towards the top of the Passo Grostè chairlift and head south following the Cima Roma ski mountaineering route. Leave Cima Grostè on your right and walk all the way around it. Continue south, coasting below the east face of Cima Grostè until you route th valley that descends from Bocchetta dei Camosci. Ascend this valley and aim for the base of the obvious north-east face of Cima Falkner.
Approximately 1:30 / 2 hours depending on snow conditions. Approach on skis recommended.
GPS coordinates of the start of the route: 46.193745 N,10.906693 E

Itinerary

P1: 30 m, WI4+
P2: 30 m, WI5+, M5
P3: 40 m, M7
P4: 60 m, WI5, M5
P5: 60 m, WI5, M7
P6: 100 m, 40°

Gear

2 sets of cams up to yellow BD, short and medium ice screws, pegs and hammer for the belays.

Notes

First ascent: Enrico "Cobra" Lovato and Federico Asciolla on 01/05/2024 using ice screws and cams for progression and pegs at the belays.