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23.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner climb new ice in Iceland

In Iceland the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of the new mixed climb Shelter of the gods M10.

20.03.2018 by Matteo Giglio in Alpinism

Burian in Valle di Cogne, new mixed climb by Matteo Giglio and François Cazzanelli

The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.

Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach

Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by kayak.

16.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Los Picos 6500, first summits climbed in the Andes by Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini

In the Andes the Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini have successfully climbed the first three mountains of the Los Picos 6500 project. The aim is to climb the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes in circa 60 days and shortly after their arrival they ascended Aconcagua, Tupungato and Mercedario. They will be accompanied by their friend and fellow mountaineer Michele Leonardi.

15.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson officially presumed dead in Alaska

The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.

14.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Jumbo Jet direct start in Val Lietres, Dolomites

In Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have added a direct start, up rock, to the famous icefall Jumbo Jet. With this new variant the route tackles overall difficulties up to M7 WI5+.

13.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Wild French rock climbs in Pirrit Hills, Antarctica

In early 2018 a French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne expedition comprised of Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Jean-Yves Igonenc, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti, Dimitry Munoz established a series of new rock climbs in the Pirrit Hills range of Antarctica. Highlights include Coming in from the cold up Mount Tidd (2244 m) and Corrasion up the virgin Mount Turcotte (1950 m).

12.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Robert Jasper Flying Circus rope solo video

The video of Robert Jasper making a rope solo, free ascent the famous mixed climb Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.

11.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Star and Adventure Awards Days 2018, in April the Garda Trentino outdoor festival

From 20 - 22 April 2018 Arco, Italy will host the Adventure Awards Days, the International Festival of adventure and exploration. Star guests include Simone Moro, Jeremy Collins, Jane Goodall, Nicolas Favresse, Emilio Previtali, Dino Lanzaretti, Jakub Rybicki, Valeria Mosca, Igor D’India. The festival will also host the thrid edition of Arco Rock Star, the international climbing photography contest in the heart of Garda Trentino region.

09.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer: the scary, risky rappel, the video and interview

Interview with 34-year-old Hansjörg Auer after his extremely risky abseil off the South Face of Achplatte in Austria. The video of this abseil has monopolised the climbing community’s social media.

08.03.2018 by Simon Gietl in Alpinism

South Tyrol ice climbing, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish MFG

Simon Gietl reports about MFG, a new mixed climb at Rein in Taufers in the Dolomites, Italy, first ascended with Vittorio Messini.

07.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dolomites ice climbing video: Once in a lifetime in Val Lietres

The video of the first ascent of Once in a lifetime, the new icefall up Col Turont in Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) first ascended by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler.

07.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Avers Valley ice climbing / new variation Risiko to Thron in Switzerland

Ice climbing in Switzerland: on Saturday 10 February 2018 Matteo Rivadossi and Leonardo Gheza swung leads to establish a new variation to the famous icefall Thron, also known as Mostro d'Avers in Val d'Avers. Interestingly, at exactly the same time they were joined by a Swiss team intent on climbing the very same line… Rivadossi provides the report.

06.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Robert Jasper makes rope solo of Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh

High up on the Breitwangfluh in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland German alpinist Robert Jasper has made a rope solo, free ascent of his world famous mixed climb Flying Circus.

03.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold devours his Power Shrimps at Helmcken Falls in Canada

Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has established and freed Power Shrimps, a new ice climb at Helmcken Falls in Canada.

01.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama climbs Sagzahn - Verschneidung in Valsertal, Austria

Alpinism in Austria: David Lama has completed the Sagzahn-Verschneidung in the Valsertal with Peter Mühlburger. The mixed route up the Sagwand is circa 800 meters high and graded M6/A2.

01.03.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Huge Fosslimonster icefall repeated in Norway by French alpinists

Fosslimonster at Gudvangen, reputed to be one of the longest and most beautiful ice climbs not just in Norway, has been repeated by a flurry of French alpinists including Pierre Labbre, Max Bonniot and Léo Billon. The video of what are quite possibly the first repeats since the route was established in 2009 by Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli.

25.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia, Matteo Della Bordella & Silvan Schüpbach climb new route

Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach have forged a new route up Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia.

24.02.2018 by Domenico Perri in Alpinism

Everest in winter: strong winds force Txikon & Co to descend

Everest news flash: due to the strong winds the expedition led by Alex Txikon is currently descending to base camp. The expedition is attempting to make a winter ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen.

23.02.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Once in a Lifetime in Val Lietres, spectacular ice climb in the Dolomites

On Col Turont in Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have established Once in a Lifetime (WI6+, M8, 165 m), a beautiful icefall which probably has never been climbed before.




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