In Iceland the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of the new mixed climb Shelter of the gods M10.
The report by Matteo Giglio who teamed up with François Cazzanelli to make the first ascent of a mixed climb called Burian (150 m, WI5 R M8) up the Paretone di Chevril face in Valle di Cogne, Valle d’Aosta, Italy.
Matteo Della Bordella talks King Kong up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur in Patagonia, climbed with Silvan Schüpbach
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by kayak.
Los Picos 6500, first summits climbed in the Andes by Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
In the Andes the Italian alpinists Franco Nicolini, Tomas Franchini and Silvestro Franchini have successfully climbed the first three mountains of the Los Picos 6500 project. The aim is to climb the 16 highest peaks above 6500 meters in the South American Andes in circa 60 days and shortly after their arrival they ascended Aconcagua, Tupungato and Mercedario. They will be accompanied by their friend and fellow mountaineer Michele Leonardi.
The two highly talented alpinists Marc-André Leclerc and Ryan Johnson are officially missing and presumed deceased in Alaska. They have not been heard from since their 5 March ascent of the Mendenhall Towers.
In Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have added a direct start, up rock, to the famous icefall Jumbo Jet. With this new variant the route tackles overall difficulties up to M7 WI5+.
In early 2018 a French Groupe Militaire de haute montagne expedition comprised of Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Jean-Yves Igonenc, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti, Dimitry Munoz established a series of new rock climbs in the Pirrit Hills range of Antarctica. Highlights include Coming in from the cold up Mount Tidd (2244 m) and Corrasion up the virgin Mount Turcotte (1950 m).
The video of Robert Jasper making a rope solo, free ascent the famous mixed climb Flying Circus at Breitwangfluh in Switzerland.
From 20 - 22 April 2018 Arco, Italy will host the Adventure Awards Days, the International Festival of adventure and exploration. Star guests include Simone Moro, Jeremy Collins, Jane Goodall, Nicolas Favresse, Emilio Previtali, Dino Lanzaretti, Jakub Rybicki, Valeria Mosca, Igor D’India. The festival will also host the thrid edition of Arco Rock Star, the international climbing photography contest in the heart of Garda Trentino region.
Interview with 34-year-old Hansjörg Auer after his extremely risky abseil off the South Face of Achplatte in Austria. The video of this abseil has monopolised the climbing community’s social media.
Simon Gietl reports about MFG, a new mixed climb at Rein in Taufers in the Dolomites, Italy, first ascended with Vittorio Messini.
The video of the first ascent of Once in a lifetime, the new icefall up Col Turont in Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) first ascended by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler.
Ice climbing in Switzerland: on Saturday 10 February 2018 Matteo Rivadossi and Leonardo Gheza swung leads to establish a new variation to the famous icefall Thron, also known as Mostro d'Avers in Val d'Avers. Interestingly, at exactly the same time they were joined by a Swiss team intent on climbing the very same line… Rivadossi provides the report.
High up on the Breitwangfluh in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland German alpinist Robert Jasper has made a rope solo, free ascent of his world famous mixed climb Flying Circus.
Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold has established and freed Power Shrimps, a new ice climb at Helmcken Falls in Canada.
Alpinism in Austria: David Lama has completed the Sagzahn-Verschneidung in the Valsertal with Peter Mühlburger. The mixed route up the Sagwand is circa 800 meters high and graded M6/A2.
Fosslimonster at Gudvangen, reputed to be one of the longest and most beautiful ice climbs not just in Norway, has been repeated by a flurry of French alpinists including Pierre Labbre, Max Bonniot and Léo Billon. The video of what are quite possibly the first repeats since the route was established in 2009 by Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli.
Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach have forged a new route up Cerro Riso Patron in Patagonia.
Everest news flash: due to the strong winds the expedition led by Alex Txikon is currently descending to base camp. The expedition is attempting to make a winter ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen.
On Col Turont in Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Florian Riegler have established Once in a Lifetime (WI6+, M8, 165 m), a beautiful icefall which probably has never been climbed before.