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21.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Shauna Coxsey, Jongwon Chon win Bouldering World Cup 2017, Stasa Gejo, Jan Hojer crowned European Champions

The last stage of the Boulder World Cup 2017 was won on Saturday by Germany’s Jan Hojer and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. Britain’s Shauna Coxsey and South Korea’s Jongwon Chon won the overall Bouldering World Cup 2017, while the European Championship was won by Serbia’s Stasa Gejo and Jan Hojer. All the results.

21.08.2017 by Giovanni Giarletta in Alpinism

Via Napoleone discovered in Val Torrone, Val Masino

Giovanni Giarletta reports about the first ascent of Via Napoleone, a new climb in remote Val Torrone high above Val Masino, initiated by Manuele Panzeri and Pietro Tentori about nine years ago and completed this August.

19.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Pietro Radassao frees Frosolone’s Iron Moon 8c+/9a

The report by Pietro Radassao who at Frosolone (Molise, Central Italy) made the first ascent of 'Iron Moon', a sport climb for which the Italian climber suggests 8c+/9a.

19.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Boulder World Cup 2017 and European Boulder Championship in Munich

Live streaming today from Munich, Germany, currently hosting the last stage of the World Cup Boulder 2017, which also acts as the European Boulder Championship.

18.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tre Cime di Lavaredo - rock climbing in the Dolomites

Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola: the Tre Cime di Lavaredo offer unparalleled rock climbing throughout the Dolomites. Planetmountain.com provides an overview with some of the routes that have become milestones in the history of mountaineering, such as Spigolo Giallo, Via Comici - Dimai, Via Cassin, Hasse Brandler, Spigolo degli Scoiattoli and many more.

18.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

L'or du temps, new climb up Grand Capucin by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez

Over 4 days this summer France’s Arnaud Petit and Switzerland’s Nina Caprez made the first ascent of L'or du temps, a new route up the South Face of Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc massif.

18.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bivacco dal Bianco at Passo Ombretta, Marmolada, closed for maintenance

From 21 to 23 August 2017 the bivouac Bivacco dal Bianco located at the Ombretta Pass on Marmolada, Dolomites, will be closed for maintenance.

17.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Federica Mingolla repeats Via della Cattedrale, Marmolada, Dolomites

Interview with Italian climber Federica Mingolla who teamed up with Nicolò Geremia to repeat Via della Cattedrale (8a+ max, 800m), the famous climb up Marmolada, Dolomites

15.08.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Climbing

Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco, part 2

The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.

15.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek climb Project fear

On 2 August 2017 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek carried out the second repeat of Project Fear (8c, 550 m) up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites

14.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Petri Heil new rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites

In 2016 Hannes Pfeifhofer and Dietmar Niederbrunner made the first ascent of Petri Heil (6c +, 590 meters), a new multi-pitch rock climb up Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.

14.08.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Climbing

Free to climb - the discovery of rock climbing at Arco

The first episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.

13.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jernej Kruder climbs 8b+ greenpoint at Kotečnik in Slovenia

At the limestone crag Kotečnik in Slovenia Jernej Kruder has made a trad ascent of the 8b+ sport climb 'Umazana Igra'.

12.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jakob Schubert rocks Rocklands

On his first climbing trip to Rocklands, South Africa, Austria’s Jakob Schubert climbed more than 20 boulder problems graded 8B or harder.

10.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin repeat Mora Mora on Tsaranoro in Madagascar

America’s Sasha DiGiulian and Spain’s Edu Marin have made what is believed to be the second free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo in Madagascar.

10.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Video: Jacopo Larcher's Cadarese trad climbing project

The first episode of the new series ‘Strange Heroes' by La Sportiva features Jacopo Larcher and his difficult trad climbing project at Cadarese, Italy.

10.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cima Ovest, new rock climb at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites

On the NW Face Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites, Manuel Baumgartner and Alexander Huber have established Schatten der Großen (VII, 330m).

09.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face

In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.

09.08.2017 by Maurizio Oviglia in Climbing

The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco

A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in Physics laureate will be at Arco on 25 August 2017 in order to receive the award Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil during the Arco Rock Legends 2017. By Maurizio Oviglia.

08.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar

The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes (USA) and Adam Ondra (Cze), while the La Sportiva Competition Award nominees are Shauna Coxsey (GB), Janja Garnbret (Slo) and Domen Škofič (Slo). The prestigious Dryarn Climbing Ambassador will be awarded to Scottish climber and Nobel Prize in Physics laureate Mike Kosterlitz.

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