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10.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cima Ovest, new rock climb at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites

On the NW Face Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites, Manuel Baumgartner and Alexander Huber have established Schatten der Großen (VII, 330m).

09.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Val di Mello, new rock climb on Qualido East Face

In June 2017 Marco Gianola, Simone Manzi and Andrea Mariani made the first ascent of 'Gran Diedro della Marocca’ (320m, 6b) up the East Face of Monte Qualido above Val di Mello, Italy.

09.08.2017 by Maurizio Oviglia in Climbing

The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco

A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in Physics laureate will be at Arco on 25 August 2017 in order to receive the award Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil during the Arco Rock Legends 2017. By Maurizio Oviglia.

08.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Events

Arco Rock Legends 2017: the 6 nominations for the sport climbing Oscar

The sport climbing Oscars return to Arco on Friday 25 August 2017 with the 12th edition of Arco Rock Legends, celebrated during the 31st Rock Master. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Stefano Ghisolfi (Ita), Margo Hayes (USA) and Adam Ondra (Cze), while the La Sportiva Competition Award nominees are Shauna Coxsey (GB), Janja Garnbret (Slo) and Domen Škofič (Slo). The prestigious Dryarn Climbing Ambassador will be awarded to Scottish climber and Nobel Prize in Physics laureate Mike Kosterlitz.

07.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland

The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.

04.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Federica Mingolla climbs Vertical Chimera on Civetta, Dolomites

Federica Mingolla and Francesco Rigon have repeated Chimera Verticale (IX, 600m + initial pedestal), the difficult alpine climb up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) first ascended by Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber and Luca Matteraglia.

03.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Events

Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August

Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.

02.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Laura Rogora and Margo Hayes set sights on Biographie at Céüse in France

Italian climber Laura Rogora has climbed the first 8c+ section of Biographie at Céüse in France. The extension, freed in 2001 by Chris Sharma, is considered a benchmark 9a+ and was attempted in June by America’s Margo Hayes.

01.08.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Hansjörg Auer: Marmolada, Piz Ciavazes and Sass dla Crusc free solo climb in a single day

The video of Hansjörg Auer who on 8 August 2016 in the Dolomites climbed free solo the routes Vinatzer - Messner up Marmolada, Abramkante up Piz Ciavazes and Große Mauer up Sass dla Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel. The Austrian flew by paraglider from one mountain to the next and required 12 hours in total.

30.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges brilliant at Briançon

On Saturday 29 July 2017 Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret and France’s Romain Desgranges won the third stage of the Lead World Cup 2017 at Briançon in France.

29.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Lead World Cup 2017 - Briançon Live

Briancon, France is currently hosting the third stage of the Lead World Cup 2017. The finals take place this evening at 19:30 and will be transmitted in live streaming.

28.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Climbing in the Dolomites: Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher find and free Oblivion

On Piz Ander in the Gadertal, Dolomites, Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have first ascended and freed Oblivion (IX, 275m).

28.07.2017 by Manrico Dell'Agnola in Alpinism

Torre Trieste, Via Cassin - Ratti and never-ending beauty

Manrico Dell'Agnola introduces in photos and writing the Torre Trieste tower in the Civetta group of the Dolomites and the route first ascended by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti up the SE arête. Dating back to 1935, this is considered one of the most classic, beautiful and famous alpine outings in the Dolomites and Alps.

26.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Competitions

The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017

From 20 - 30 July 2017 Wrocław (Breslavia) in Poland hosted the 10th World Games. More than 35,800 athletes competed in the 2017 edition dedicated to 36 different sports, including sport climbing with its three disciples Lead, Speed and Boulder.

26.07.2017 by Siebe Vanhee in Alpinism

Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee

Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.

24.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Ned Feehally flashes 8B+ boulder in Rocklands

British climber Ned Feehally has flashed Trust Issues, an 8B+ boulder problem at Rocklands in South Africa. This is one of the hardest flash ascents to date.

24.07.2017 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out

A portrait and two videos of Catherine Destivelle, one the most talented climbers and alpinists of all times.

24.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bird's-eye view of the Dolomites

The Dolomites seen through the eyes of bird: a RedBull video of an eagle flying close to the rock faces in the Italian Dolomites.

22.07.2017 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Stolby trad climbing festival in Siberia

The video of the trad climbing festival in the Stolby National Park in Siberia.

20.07.2017 by Nicola Tondini in Alpinism

Cima Scotoni Dolomites Direttissima climbed by Nicola Tondini

The report by XMountain mountain guide Nicola Tondini about his first ascent of ‘Non abbiate paura di sognare’ up the SW Face of Cima Scotoni in the Italian dolomites. Established with different partners the route tackles difficulties up to X (8b) (obligatory IX-, 7b+) and checks in as one of the most difficult multi-pitch climbs in the Dolomites.

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