Interview with Alexander Megos who on Sunday, May 21, 2017 at Gravere in Italy managed to onsight the 9a sport climb TCT. This is the German’s second 9a onsight after the historic world’s first 9a onsight in 2013.
On Sunday 21/05/2017 Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the probable first repeat of Tra Nuvole e Sogni (200m, 8a max, 7b obligatory), the difficult climb put up by Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini in 2012 on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy).
The report and topo by Alessio Roverato of the new multi-pitch rock climb Distensione (180m, 7a+ max, 6c+ obl) on Monte Spiz in Val Gadena (Valsugana Italy), established with Angela Carraro.
Czech climber Adam Ondra checked out the ADEL climbing wall which from 29 June to 1 July 2017 will host the European Climbing Championship.
Polish climber Marek Raganowicz has made the first ascent of two difficult big walls on the Ship's Prow on Baffin Island, Canada: MantraMandala (A3) and Secret of Silence (A4).
At Black Canyon in Colorado, USA, the Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established the new multi-pitch rock climb Mango Tango (5.11+ R/X, 600m).
At Sonlerto in Valle Bavona, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of Grande gigante gentile. Graded 8A and 12m tall, the 20-year-old Swiss climber has described the line as 'the perfect highball'.
Melloblocco 2017 seen through the eyes of Maurizio Panseri. After having climbed in Val Masino and Val di Mello for 30 years, the Italian alpinist now took part in this, his first-ever, grand bouldering meeting.
In order to protect America’s National Monuments, yesterday the climbers Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell traveled to Capitol Hill in Washington together with Libby Sauter and Kai Lightner where they voiced their concerns with the American Senate.
Pietro Biagini repeats Ombra (8b/+), the historic sport climb freed in 1988 by Andrea Gallo at Rocca di Perti close to Finale Ligure in Italy.
Tomorrow heralds the start in Italy’s Val Masino – Val di Mello on Melloblocco 2017, the world’s most famous international climbing meeting. Over 2000 climbers have already registered for the 14th edition.
On the South Face of Sass dai Tamersc Christoph Hainz has reequipped Der Fluch der Kamine (VII-, 390m). According to mountain guide from the South Tyrol this climb 'has the potential to become a classic rock climb' in the Italian Dolomites.
The countdown has begun to the European Climbing Championship, scheduled to take place from 29 June to 1 July 2017 at Campitello di Fassa, Italy. Val di Fassa will the Lead and Speed disciplines, as well as the Dolomiti Summer and Walking Festival and the traditional Dolomia meeting of historical mountaineering clubs of the Dolomites.
The fourth stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2017 was won today at Hachioji-Tokyo in Japan by Slovenia climber Janja Garnbret and Russia’s Aleksei Rubtsov.
From 25 - 30 April 2017, Silvan Schüpbach and Dimitri Vogt repeated the Muir Wall up El Capitan in Yosemite. During 6 days on the 1000m southwest face the two Swissmen climbed all 33 pitches free at 5.13c (8a+).
Shauna Coxsey, Keita Watabe, Iuliia Kaplina, Reza Alipourshenazandifar win Nanjing stage of Boulder & Speed World Cup
Nanjing in China hosted the third stage of the Boulder World Cup 2017 on 28 and 29 April, won by Britain's Shauna Coxsey and Japan's Keita Watabe. The second stage of the Speed World Cup was won by Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina and Iran’s Reza Alipourshenazandifar. Both athletes managed to set new world records.
At Annot in France James Pearson has made the first ascent of Le Voyage, a trad climb graded E10 7a that might well be one of the hardest single pitch pure trad routes in the country.
We have republished an interview with Ueli Steck we carried out in February 2006 at the Piolet d’Or award, for which the Swiss alpinist had been nominated for his solo enchainment of Cholatse, Tawoche and Ama Dablam.
At Laghel close to Arco, Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi made the first ascent of One Punch, a new 9a+ sports climb. Stefano Carnati repeated Il Frutto del Diavolo 8c+/9a at Bus de Vela and at Narango Alexander Megos made one of the hardest onsights on Italian soil.
In memory of Ueli Steck, the great Swiss mountaineer who died yesterday on Nuptse close to Everest.