The Melloblocco 2014 boulder problems by Simone Pedeferri
The latest updates from the route setter Simone Pedeferri about the boulder problems that are just waiting to be climbed during Melloblocco 2014.
Every year preparing Melloblocco turns out to be a real adventure and before it all begins I spend days searching for just the right boulders that are suitable to host the new areas. So first of all I decide which zones are going to be used and although I always know the starting point, the end result is largely unknown. Despite believing that I can imagine it all, in actual fact I never have a perfect picture of which sectors will eventually be cleaned, ready to climb, and this is one of the most fascinating factors of this preparation stage.
Seeing the end result is always far more interesting than what we initially expect and my friends and I are always proud of the lines. As holds appear one by one, hidden away beneath moss and behind plants, the problems end up being far more beautiful and interesting than at first glance.
First the new areas need to be found by walking though the forests, past trees, unstable rocks and thick bushes, and then imagined what they might transform into despite the thick vegetation. Much care and attention goes into preparing the landings since these are completely different from what they later become. What follows is the cleaning and brushing stage, problems are set and, if necessary, descents created since these obviously shouldn't be killer. Problems are attempted and freed and we decide which are allocated to the male and female competitions. What's missing at this point are the paths that connect one sector to the next, marked with cairns and sometimes even improved with wooden walkways. Last but not least I draw the map and get lost in a collage of thousands of sketches, arrows, colours and grades.
Thanks to this Melloblocco creativity thirteen new areas have been created over the years: La Mota, Pilastri del Pesgunfi, Campo Sportivo, Climb for Life, Zocca nuova, Campeggio, 4 sectors at Visido alta, Val di Mello with the majority of problems, the Sasso Remenno area, Bagni Nuova and some boulders at Bagni. This “boulder playground” is the result of a great love for climbing, both mine and that of my friends without whom I would never have been able to achieve all this. That's why I'd like to express my sincere gratitude to them for all the hard days work.
As to Melloblocco 2014, this year the present includes 120 new problems. The Sasso Remenno - Scivolo zone hosts 65 problems within its lower, labyrinth-like area of caves and caverns and its upper, more open and scenic area. Another area is located at Visido; this hosts 30 fine-grained problems and is reached via a beautiful approach path. All the remaining new problems are dotted throughout the valley.
We'd like recommend a small selection of new boulder problems we feel are the most beautiful. Apart from the fabulous competition problems, try the photogenic 6B+ "1879SP" located between two crotti buildings at Visido, as well as the 6B/C above the women's comp problem "Cambia Ala" and the 7A/B to the left of the comp problem "Mare Nostrum" with its 8A sit start. A 6B, 6C and 7A+ all share the same start on the boulder to the right of "El Calamar" and they're all pumpy and really worthwhile.
In the area Remenno-scivolo area inside the cave to the right Bistecca there are 4 very physical problems , the most beautiful is the 7C "Non me lo posso permettere" located at the cave exit on the left. A series of crimps lead via some acrobatic moves to a large flake and the problem then switches onto the other side and continues to the top. A small cave is located above "Vaca Muerta" that hosts 5 problems from 6C to 7C+, the most beautiful of which crosses it diagonally right and is called "Cicciolina" 7B +. The boulder located just before the route Altman is interesting, too, with 7 problems from 5 to 7C+. Others worth trying are the "Aquila volante" arete 6B+ and the 6A + slab behind "Disco Inferno". The 8A"Un salto nel buio" located in the cave above the comp problem "Johnny Crash" promises exciting moments.
These are just a few problems we'd like to recommend, now its your turn to get out there and climb them. Happy bouldering to everyone!
by Simone Pedeferri
A Green Woman Zona Visido
B Cambia Ala Zona Visido
C Mare Nostrum Zona Visido
D La Bistecca Sasso Remenno
E La Vaca Mersa Sasso Remenno
F Jonny Crash Sasso Remenno
G Fuori Tra Le Stelle Sasso Remenno
H The Next Day Zona Climb For Life
I Long Nights Zona Bagni
L Green Man Zona Visido
M El Calamar Zona Visido
N Disco Inferno Sasso Remenno
O Off Width Belly Sasso Remenno
P Il Gioco Di Malpe Sasso Remenno
Q Hell Boy Sasso Remenno
R Trudi Zona Climb For Life
S Il Sogno Di Un Uomo Ridicolo Zona Bagni
T Il Cappone Zona Bagni
30/04/2014 - For those who love Melloblocco... the journey begins
24/04/2014 - Less than a week to Melloblocco!
10/04/2014 - Simone Pedeferri - behind the scenes of Melloblocco 2014
03/04/2014 - Melloblocco 2014 - simply climbing
16/01/2014 - Melloblocco 2014 - register now online!
Info and program on www.melloblocco.it