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Akiyo Noguchi
Photo by Giulio Malfer
Rustam Gelmanov at the Climbing World Championship 2011 at Arco, Italy. The Russian was born on 6 December 1987 in Tekeli, Kazakhstan
Photo by Giulio Malfer
The third stage of the Bouldering World Cup 2012 in Vienna, Austria: Kilian Fischhuber
Photo by ÖWK- Heiko Wilhelm

Bouldering World Cup 2012: Gelmanov and Noguchi win in Vienna


The third round of the Bouldering World Cup 2012 was won today in Vienna by Rustam Gelmanov from Russia and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan

Third round, of six, today in Vienna. The Bouldering World Cup 2012 has reached the half-way point and this evening, in the Austrian capital, it was him once again - Rustam Gelmanov - and her once again - Akiyo Noguchi, who dominated and won the event.

The Russian and the Japanese comfortably lead the provisional results after an exceptional competition: Gelmanov send all four boulder problems in the final in 7 attempts, while Noguchi was just as impeccable with 4 problems sent in a mere 6 attemtps.

Second place in the beautiful men's final went to Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (3 tops in 4 attempts) and third went to Kilian Fischhuber (3 tops in 5 attempts) while Rei Sugimoto from Japan and the Frenchmen Thomas Caleyron and Jeremy Bonder completed the list. These last three aren't names which usually make it into the final ranking but obviously in Vienna today they managed to find that little bit of something more which bouldering can sometimes give. Or take away: just ask Jakob Schubert and the 2009 Bouldering World Champion Alexey Rubtsov, two of the numerous illustrious climbers who much to everyone's surprise failed to make it through the qualification.

The women's final provided no great upsets, and after gold taken by Noguchi, silver was won by Slovenian Mina Markovic (3 tops in 5 attempts) and bronze by American Alex Puccio (2 tops in 2 attempts and the best in the Semi-final). The remaining three, in this extremely international final, were Shauna Coxsey from great Britain, local Austrian hope Anna Stöhr and Olga Shalagina from the Ukraine.

All these athletes will now enjoy a fortnight's rest before the 4th round in Innsbruck on 18-19 May.

IFSC World Cup 2012 - Vienna, Austria
Boulder men
1 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 4t7 4b4
2 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 3t4 4b4
3 Kilian Fischhuber AUT 3t5 4b4
4 Rei Sugimoto JPN 3t13 4b7
5 Thomas Caleyron FRA 2t3 4b5
6 Jeremy Bonder FRA 2t12 2b9

Boulder women
1 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 4t6 4b4
2 Mina Markovic SLO 3t5 4b4
3 Alex Puccio USA 2t2 3b4
4 Shauna Coxsey GBR 2t5 4b7
5 Anna Stöhr AUT 1t1 3b3
6 Olga Shalagina UKR 0t 0b
Provisional results 2012
Boulder men
1. Rustam Gelmanov RUS 265
2. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 161
3. Guillaume Glairon Mondet FRA 156
4. Jakob Schubert AUT 154
5. Kilian Fischhuber AUT 145

Boulder women
1. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 251
2. Mina Markovic SLO 227
3. Anna Stöhr AUT 196
4. Shauna Coxsey GBR 190
5. Alex Puccio USA 125





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