Welcome to Tijuana, new rock climb in Italy's Gola del Limarò
In June 2014 Francesco Salvaterra and Nicola Calza made the first ascent of Welcome to Tijuana (180m 7a, 6b+ oblig), a new multi-pitch climb in the Gola del Limarò canyon close to Arco, Trentino - Alto Adige, Italy
This new route in the Gola del Limarò, unlike the previous ones, is a sport climb and offers beautiful and technical climbing up the “dominant” line of this compact face. What renders this climbing unique though is something else: while there are countless superb limestone climbs in the Arco area, the base of the canyon and its games of light render this something truly unique.
The first two pitches climb a technical slab, the third tackles the obvious crack while the fourth breaches the overhangs via a pumpy, exposed traverse high above the river. We gave this route this name because it is a great introduction to the Gola del Limarò; the bolts allow for a relaxing outing. Nevertheless, the distance between the bolts is such that most sections require fairly high obligatory climbing, while the 7a section on the traverse has been bolted in such a way that it can easily be aided, for the peace of mind of girlfriends and, I'll hedge a bet, for many climbers who will wish to repeat this route. The pitches have been equipped with stainless steel 8mm bolts while the belays have 10mm bolts.
Note: At 4m height there was an old bolt and carabiner, and on the right at 10m height there's an old belay; an abandoned attempt by unknown climbers. In summer the face remains in the shade until midday; the ideal thing to do is reach the base at 9 or 10, place a couple of beers in the river, repeat the route, abseil off, have a refreshing dip and celebrate with the cool beers.
TOPO: Welcome to Tijuana, Gola del Limarò