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Sean Villanueva geared up for the trad climb in the Frankenjura. Note the huge wooden hammer usually used to tap local beer kegs.
Photo by Frank Kretschmann

Sean Villanueva climbs freaky Frankenjura trad

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The video of Belgian rock climber Sean Villanueva repeating 'Der Ungeheuer sei Mutter', a difficult and somewhat particular trad climb at the Vogelherdgrotte crag in the Frankenjura, Germany.

Frankenjura, home to the famous rotpunkt movement "invented" by Kurt Albert, is renowned for its thousands of sport climbs situated on the hundreds of limestone outcrops littered throughout the forest to the northeast of Nürnberg. Steeped in tradition, Germany’s premiere sport climbing area does have its fair share of trad climbs though and, more recently, sport climbs repeated in greenpoint style i.e. skipping the bolts and using trad pro.

It comes as quite a surprise therefore that this obvious crack at Vogelherdgrotte graded IX, 7c was first ascended as late as 2016, by local Alexander Neubauer. In order to protect the moves that lead out out of the dark damp depths into the light Neubauer jammed a huge wooden hammer… usually used to tap local beer kegs. The first repeat, onsight, was made recently by Sean Villanueva. Now that isn’t surprising.



Link:  FB Sean VillanuevaPetzlSCARPA

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