Out of space, new route on Chalchschijen

The photos are impressive to say the least and according to Jvan Tresch, the route is fantastic. 18 pitches up to 8a+ and one section of A1 aid up the compact SE Face of Chalchschijen in the Maderaner in Switzerland, established during the summers 2008, 2009 and 2011 and called off on various occasions due to incessant rain and snow.

Last summer though the yearned-for good weather window finally arrived and the climbers ascended back up to their previous highpoint. Tresch explains: "doubts came up as the difficulty of the next pitch was extremely high (8a). It took us a while! Meter by meter we climbed, hooked and bolted our way up.

At one point our original plan of a direct line didn’t work out properly and because of an absolutely blank wall in front of us, we switched to plan B: trying to top out on the summit now by following a steep and weird crack system to the right.

To our own surprise we made it to the summit in perfect conditions and along a nice natural line, where everything went down quite fast. This gave us the opportunity to work out the upper difficult pitches and to freeclimb some of them up to 8a+ the following days." All that remains to do now is free that section of A1 aid.


Out Of Space