Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias, goodbye to the alpinist who climbed with his soul

On Wednesday evening Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias passed away in Trieste. The acclaimed Italian alpinist, writer and theater director was an academic of the Italian Alpine Club and, for three decades, president of GISM, the Italian Group of Mountain Writers. With him Italian mountaineering, and not only, looses a great alpinist and intellectual. Chiara Florit remembers Spiro who, on 21 February, would have celebrated his 100th birthday.
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Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias together with Chiara Florit
archivio M. Florit

Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias has left is, he is no more. Last night the world lost one of its greats, yes, this is what Spiro was: a really great person. Because the world is full of famous mountaineers, but those capable of climbing with their soul are few and far between. And when he was too old to climb any longer, he wrote about the mountains, spoke about them, believed in them. Spiro was one of the few men who, at some point in their lives, begin to ask questions about life in general, ask themselves what they want to believe in, what they want to love.

So Spiro created his personal ethics, his own concepts, like that of the summit. In fact, he firmly believed in the upper realm, in the summit, and he managed to remain up high without ever imposing himself on others. Talking about him in the past is so painful, he who had always been a part of me, he who ever since we met treated me as his equal, calling me "his colleague, just a little bit younger”. Me, while I am just a girl, only beginning to see the world while he was the very essence of the mountains, of nature, of love. He knew how to teach you something by simply being there, he who always had a really strong handshake, he who always stood up to speak, who waited for guests before opening a bottle of wine. He who, whenever I visited him, gave me one of his books, he who at his lectures spoke "off the cuff", i.e. he improvised, and was nevertheless always extremely successful.

He who was a born actor, but when faced by the mountains he showed himself for what he was, and gave them his all. I owe him a lot, because thanks to him I realised how much a simple climb can teach you. It was only thanks to him that I started to ask questions about things. I learned to always help others, just like he did even when he was tired. And I realized how much someone can be special and how they can serve as an example to make the world a better place.

I’ll never be able to thank him enough. Or maybe I will, perhaps there is a way. Maybe you who are reading these words can help me. Together we can decide to live our lives to the full, to not waste it by talking and thinking about things that are not really important. Together we can promise to take to the mountains with our hearts free and full of good, and see both his soul and the immensity of his nature.

Yes, together we can do it; and Spiro, wherever he is now, will be happy because his ethics will never be forgotten, and his spirit will exist forever, up there on the highest peak.

by Chiara Florit

Chiara Florit is from Trieste, 13 years old, daughter of Mauro Florit, one of the most famous alpinists from Trieste. She has written "Dalla cima penso..." (Luglioeditore) a book of poems which Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias pursuaded her to publish.

>> Bibliography Spiro Dalla Porta Xydias




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