Home page Planetmountain.com
Aleksei Lonchinskii on the ridge during the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m), Himalaya, Nepal, carried out with Yury Koshelenko
Photo by Yury Koshelenko, Aleksei Lonchinskii
On day 2 of the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m), Himalaya, Nepal (Yury Koshelenko, Aleksei Lonchinskii)
Photo by Yury Koshelenko, Aleksei Lonchinskii
Selfie: Aleksei Lonchinskii and Yury Koshelenko il 29/10/2017, during the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m), Himalaya, Nepal
Photo by Yury Koshelenko, Aleksei Lonchinskii
The line of the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m), Himalaya, Nepal, climbed alpine style over five days by the Russians Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii in autumn 2017
Photo by Yury Koshelenko, Aleksei Lonchinskii

Phungi Peak, big Himalayan first ascent by Koshelenko and Lonchinskii

di

On 28 October 2017 Russian mountaineers Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii completed the first ascent of Phungi Peak (6538 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. Climbing in alpine style, the two required five days to forge their route up the mountain’s SW Face.

Towards the end of October the Russian mountaineers Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinskii hit it big in the Himalaya where they successfully made the first ascent of Phungi Peak, the beautiful and hitherto unclimbed 6538 m mountain situated to the west of Manaslu in Nepal.

Setting off on 26 October, the duo climbed a fairly direct line up the 1500 m high SW Face in alpine style, requiring three days to reach the summit. During their clim the Russians breached up ice up to 80° and after the second bivy, a mere five pitches below the summit, the weather reportedly worsened, becoming extremely cold and windy. The summit was reached not without difficulties via the exposed ridge at 16:30 on 28 October and after spending a night just below the highest point Koshelenko and Lonchinskii needed another two days to descend not via the ascent route, but down the unknown West Ridge.

As German journalist Stefan Nestler rightly points out, 54-year-old Koshelenko and 35-year-old Lonchinskiy belong to the élite of Russian alpinism and in the past both mountaineers have been awarded with the Piolet d’Or for their exceptional ascents. Koshelenko received the prize in 2004 for the first ascent of the South Pillar of Nuptse East (7804 m) climbed in November 2003 with Valeri Babanov, while a golden ice axe was awarded to Lonchinskii for the first ascent of the SW Face of Thamserku (6623 m), carried out in spring 2014 with Alexander Gukov.

Link: FB Yury Koshelenko, FB Aleksei Lonchinskii

Share

NEWS / Related news:
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
13.04.2015
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
On Saturday 11 April the awards ceremony of the 23rd Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of alpinism, were held at Courmayeur, Italy. Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky and Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic were awarded the Piolet d'Or 2015. Britain’s Chris Bonington received the Piolet d'Or Carrière.
05.11.2003
Babanov and Koshelenko summit Nuptse East 7804m
On 2 November Valery Babanov and Yura Koshelenko successfully summited Nuptse East 7804m
10.02.2004
Babanov and Koshelenko win Piolet d'or 2003
Valeri Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko won the prestigous Piolet d'Or for their ascent of Nuptse East South Pillar in November 2003.

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria