Florian Riegler deals with Sick and Tired, new mixed climb at Gampenpass Cave
At the Grotta Gampenpass in the South Tyrol Florian Riegler and his brother Martin have established two new mixed climbs. The report by Florian Riegler.
Back in 2010, while climbing Gratta and Vinci with my brother Martin, I noticed this small cave. At that time we also stumbled across some old pegs and bolts, someone had probably climbed here in the past ... Back then we established a new route ground-up and we also climbed the ice at the top.
Unfortunately though I failed to free the entire line and a few days later I suffered frostbite after having made a winter ascent of Checkmate on Gran Zebrù. The ice climbing season in winter 2010 came to an abrupt end.
Seven years later and I was keen on climbing some mixed routes once again! Since the cave is only 30 minutes drive from Bozen, Martin and I created 2 more routes in order to climb not far from home. The climbs are equipped as sports routes, with bolts and with a chain at the top. The overhanging routes have insitu quickdraws.
Access:Drive over the Lana Pass and continue towards Gampenpass, then towards the hamlet Gfrill. The cave can be seen from here. Park the car after a bridge at the end of the village, in a leftwards curve. Walk to the cave in about 50 minutes. There is no path.
by Florian Riegler
Thanks: C.A.M.P., La Sportiva,
Link: FB Riegler Brothers, www.mmarts.at
TOPO: Grotta Gampenpass