Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
One could say that Val Lunga is now our favorite valley. Last summer while walking there again with our families, we carefully examined the face that hosts the famous mixed climb Illuminati and noticed an interesting section of untouched rock to the right. Just what we were looking for.
We returned some time later and, armed with bolts, started climbing ground-up. The setting is quite unique and, depending on which way the wind blows, you might or might not end up drenched. In any case a light shower, thanks to the waterfall nearby, is pretty much inevitable!
After four days of fairly tiring "work" we reached the topped out onto the alpine meadows. The rock is generally good and the climbing up the 5 pitches is quite varied, past overhangs, steep cracks and three small roofs.
On 25 September 2016 we made the first free ascent. We both freed the pitches we had established, which meant that I freed pitches one and three, while Martin redpointed pitches two, four and five.
Black Pearl is protected relatively well and those who master this grade won’t need to integrate the pro with nuts and friends.
by Florian Riegler
Thanks to: C.A.M.P., La Sportiva, Salewa
TOPO: Black Pearl, Val Lunga, Dolomites