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Il lato oscuro

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia, Eugenio Pinotti & Paolo Seimandi, 6-7/10/2008
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Gran Paradiso, Peak: Sergent, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.

GETTING THERE

From Turin head east along the Ss460 towards Rivarolo, Cuorgnè, Pont Canavese, to the start of Valle dell'Orco. Continue to the end of the tunnel, just before Ceresole, then turn off left and park next to the campsite. Car thieves operate slightly further up the valley.

ACCESS

Continue along the road until access is barred, where it begins to descend. On the slab on the left there is a kairn. Walk up through the wood then the scree slope (kairn markers) to the start of Nautilus (15 minutes). Continue up the gully to the small chimney which marks the start of Elisir d'Incastro. Il lato oscuro starts on the left of the chimney at the base of a wide but short crack.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route (two 60m ropes). From the ledge make the final abseil down the Elisir d'Incastro chimney, then follow the track back to the start.

GEAR

Friends up to 4 BD, 1, 2 and 3. Set of nuts, slings, 2 60m ropes.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Rock Paradise, by Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

II/S2+/6c max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

SW

LENGTH

220m

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