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Eterni Peter Pan

First ascent: Elisabetta Caserini, Serotti Danilo, Ezio Marlier il 14/08/2008
By: Ezio Marlier
Area: Cozie Alps, Group: Valle Maira, Peak: Rocca La Meya, Height: 2831m, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

First ascended by Ezio Marlier and Elisabetta Caserini, this route takes a line close to those climbed by Cesare Ravaschietto and Fabio Vivalda on what is often described as being one of the most beautiful rock faces in Piemonte, both for the quality of the limestone and beautiful environment. Start at the stainless steel bolt and red slingThe route climbs the first section of the wall in three magnificent pitches.P1 6a+ slab up pillar (32m)P2 6c weathered slab (38m)P3 6a+ overhanging corner and crack (25m)This leads to a grassy ledge. Scramble up this for 60m (4+) to reach the base of the obvious red tower (bolt and red sling at base).P4 6b+ weathered overhanging wall (27m)P5 7a/7a+ weathered face climbing, slightly overhanging (30m)P6 6c+ slab and crack (30m)From here it is possible to abseil down to the ledge at half-height, from where the normal route leads down to the base of the wall. If you want to continue to the summit move left around the tower and continue up the Bosio-Morieri via the cresy and gully to reach the obvious kairn. Reach the normal route and summit (60m, 5+ not equipped).

GETTING THERE

From Cuneo drive to Demonte in Valle Stura and drive up the Vallone dell'Arma to Colle di Valcavera, at the fork turn off left. After 250m reach a hairpin bend and continue onto the gravel track. Follow this past some small houses at Colle della Bandia and after circa 700m the wall springs into view on the right.

ACCESS

Walk across pleasant alpine meadows to the base of the wall (20 mins)

DESCENT

Descend from the summit via the normal route down the easy path. From the 6th belay abseil to the ledge at half height and the normal route.

GEAR

The route is equipped with 50 stainless steel bolts, belays including. Take a series of camalots (up to #2 ) and a small selection of nuts and slings for the first two belay (2 bolts not linked together).

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Details / route
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DIFFICULTY

TD 6a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

5c

LENGTH

350m

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