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Piccolo Principe

First ascent: Nicola Tondini & Dario Segato 5/08/04, 18/07/05, 31/08/05
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Sella, Peak: Punta di Larsei, Country: Italy

Piccolo Principe is a mix between traditional and modern: traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the most compact sections of the wall. The route climbs to the left of the beautiful "Leviti-Nemela" (Aldo Leviti e Ivo Nemela 1973) and the more recent "Banda degli Onesti" (Eddy Boldrin).

ACCESS

From Passo Pordoi continue by car to the Ossario. From here follow signs for 'Ferrata C.Piazzetta' until the path leads beanth Punta Larsei. The ferrata starts on the right on a detached pillar, while our route starts on the left in the centre of the wall, to the left of 'La banda degli onesti' and 'Leviti – Nemela'. Sling on two nuts and a peg just above mark the start.

ROUTE

P1: 6c+, P2: 6c, P3: 4+, P4: 6c, P5: 6b+, P6: 6c+, P7: 6c, P8: 7a+

DESCENT

4 abseils along the route or on foot down the ferrata 'C.Piazzetta'

GEAR

Friends (up to 4 camelot), tricam, slings, two 60m ropes

NOTES

Pegs were placed along the pitches, bolts protect the belays (Raumer inox 8mm). On 31/08/05 Tondini and Segato comleted and freed the route (all pitches had been aided during the first ascent).
First free ascent: Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato 31/08/05

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COMMENTS for the route "Piccolo Principe"

10-10-2009, norbert weiss
bella via.La roccia è bella anche se al primo momento guardando la parete non sembra. Il tipo di chiodatura è di stampo alpinistico,anche se chiodi sono sufficienti. Merita una ripetizione.Si scende anche con due corde da 55m lungo la via.
18-11-2007, fulminella
bravi x lo stile usato in apertura. adoro questo tipo di vie.richiede sempre un buon autocontrollo...sei sempre in forma e dario! ciao
26-07-2007, maurizio
Bellissima via.Roccia ottima tranne ultimo tiro.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a+, R2/3. (ED+)

FACE

S

LENGTH

250m

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