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Il Piccolo Principe, Punta Larsei, new route


Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato have made the first ascent of "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. on the south face of Punta dei Larsei, Sella, Dolomites.

Punta di Larsei – Gruppo del Sella, Dolomiti

Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato continue to forage for new lines in the Dolommites. this time the two Italian mountain guides have returned home fresh from a first ascent on the south face of Punta dei Larsei in the Sella group. Tondini describes the route as being a mix between "traditional and modern". traditional for the protection (pegs and natural pro along the pitches, bolts on the belays), and modern due to the direct line which searches for the beauty of climbing up the most compact sections of the wall. The result: "Piccolo Principe" 250m, 8 pitches, max 7a+. Their new line climbs to the left of the beautiful "Leviti-Nemela" (Aldo Leviti e Ivo Nemela 1973) and the more recent "Banda degli Onesti" (Eddy Boldrin).
Punta di Larsei – Gruppo del Sella, Dolomiti"IL PICCOLO PRINCIPE"
Punta di Larsei – Sella, Dolomites
F.A.: Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato 5/08/04, 18/07/05, 31/08/05.
F.F.A.: Nicola Tondini and Dario Segato 31/08/05
Length: 250m
Grade: max 7a+, R2/3. (ED+)
Length: 8 pitches (6c+, 6c, 4+, 6c, 6b+, 6c+, 6c, 7a+)

Gear: Friends (up to 4 camelot), tricam, slings, two 60m ropes
Accesso: From Passo Pordoi continue by car to the Ossario. From here follow signs for 'Ferrata C.Piazzetta' until the path leads beanth Punta Larsei. The ferrata starts on the right on a detached pillar, while our route starts on the left in the centre of the wall, to the left of 'La banda degli onesti' and 'Leviti – Nemela'. Sling on two nuts and a peg just above mark the start.
Descent: 4 abseils along the route or on fot down the ferrata 'C.Piazzetta'
Notes: Pegs were placed along the pitches, bolts protect the belays (Raumer inox 8mm). On 31/08/05 Tondini and Segato comleted and freed the route (all pitches had been aided during the first ascent).

Climbing in the Dolomites
Via ferrata in the Dolomites
News archive Nicola Tondini





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