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A piede libero

First ascent: Established between 2009 - 2012. First free ascent Giangi Angeloni (CAAI) and Daniele Calegari.
By: Giangi Angeloni
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Presolana, Peak: Corna delle Quattro Matte, Height: 2240m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Forged from the ground-up over three summers, with the use of bolts and without fixed ropes (a bivy was made beneath the summit). The climbing during the first ascent was done free between one bolt and the next (where we hung from cliff we drilled bolts or placed kevlar in the threads which proved difficult to place with one hand only). A piede libero is recommended to those who have plenty of experience at placing trad gear (the first ascentionists did not use any pegs). The rock on pitches a and 3 isn't the most stable, but otherwise is fantastic and, in the upper half, exceptional.

ACCESS

Park the car at Passo della Presolana (1300m) and follow the path for Monte Visolo. The last section of this walk offers sweeping views over the North Face. Reach the summit (1000m height gain circa) then descend north slightly and continue right along the “Via Ferrata della Porta”. Descend for circa 15 minutes to reach the grassy shoulder which leads to the Quattro matte towers (the profile of the face can be seen here; camping possible). Descend steep slopes to the col, then continue diagonally right down the slops and rocky scramble to reach the base of the South Face, to the right of the enormous overhanging cavern which is always wet (1900m, 400m descent from the summit of Visolo). In total 2.5 hours walk.
Start: the route starts below a yellow corner (in-situ nut at the base).

ROUTE

L1: 6c, 45m
L2: 6c, 25m
L3: 7a+, 35m
L4: 7b, 40m.
L5: 7c+, 45m
L6: 6c, 15m
L7: 6b+, 35m
L8: 7b, 40m
From here scramble 50m up to the summit via rocks and the steep grassy slope (remain tied-in).

DESCENT

Abseil down the route, skipping belays 6 and 1.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

PERIOD

From May to October. Afternoon mists not uncommon.

DIFFICULTY

7c+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

South

LENGTH

280m + 50m scramble to summit

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A piede libero

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LINK

www.vertical-orme.blogspot.it

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