A piede libero, new Presolana rock climb by Angeloni and Calegari
On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.
Italian climbers Giangi Angeloni (CAAI) and Daniele Calegari have succeeded in the first ascent of a difficult new route up the rarely frequented South Face of Corna delle Quattro Matte in Norther Italy's beautiful Presolana massif. Forged from the ground up over three summers, with the use of bolts and a bivy beneath the summit, the route presents difficulties up to 7c+ and is recommended to those who easily climb obligatory 7a (the bolts are often run-out and some sections are exposed with long falls) and who have plenty of experience at placing trad gear (the first ascentionists did not use any pegs). The rock on pitches a and 3 isn't the most stable, but otherwise is fantastic and, in the upper half, exceptional. To find out more about Giangi Angeloni and his other Presolana climbs we recommend this link (in Italian only).
ROUTE TOPO: A piede libero, Presolana