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Up & Down freed by Brenna on Chogolisa

11.07.2005 by

On 10 July Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro freed "Up & Down", the route on the Chogolisa's Central Pillar (5300m circa - S-SE) first ascended by Hervé Barmasse, Luca Maspes, Francesca Chenal and Brenna himself at the end of June.

UP & Down, Pakistan Chogolisa, Brenna

On 10 July Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro freed "Up & Down", the route on the Chogolisa's Central Pillar (5300m circa - S-SE) first ascended by Hervé Barmasse, Luca Maspes, Francesca Chenal and Brenna hiimself at the end of June.

The 800m route, reviously graded 6c/7a A1, now goes free at F7c. it was first ascended over a six day period, but the two italians now freed the line in a single push.

"Up & Down" is the fourth new route of the Trip One Karakorum 2005 expedition. The others are "Fast And Furious" (700m, V°, 4° ice M6), "Green tea" (350m 6b, A1, 1 pendulum) and "Costiera del Farol Peak" (800m, 60° mixed terrain close to the summit).


UP & Down, Pakistan Chogolisa, Brenna UP & Down, Pakistan Chogolisa, Brenna


SCUDO DEL CHOGOLISA (5300m circa)
via "UP & DOWN"
S-SE Face, Central Pillar
Length: 800m, 16 pitches
Grade: 6c/7a and A1, freed 7c
Herve Barmasse - Cristian Brenna - Luca Maspes - Francesca Chenal
6 days climbing
Fixed ropes used on the lower section
FFA: Cristian Brenna and Giovanni Ongaro, 10 hours, 7c

SCUDO DEL CHOGOLISA (5300m circa)
via "GREEN TEA"
S-SE Face, First Pillar
Length: 350m
Grade: 6b, A1, 1 pendulum
Ezio Marlier - Fabio Salini - 22/6/2005
Alpine style

COSTIERA DEL FAROL PEAK (6300m circa)
Unclimbed peak (still to be named) - 6000 m c.
NW Face
F.A. Hervé Barmasse (summit) and Giovanni Pagnoncelli - 28/6/2005
Length: 800m
grade.: Ice 60° and mixed terrain close to the summit
Alpine style

Portfolio
Trip One official site
News archive Trip One


Photos: Giovanni Ongaro belaying Cristian Brenna during the first free ascent of Up & Down, the line of the route. Cristian Brenna on Chogolisa. (ph Giovanni Pagnoncelli)

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