|A year after his American tour with Yuji Hirayama, the Frenchman François Legrand is back in the States and on top form, sending Necessary Evil 5.14c/ 8c+ at Virgin River Gorge (Nevada) shortly after his arrival. |
Last years whirlwind USA trip didnt give him ample time to try Chris Sharmas masterpiece, so instead he attempted the light version, Route of All Evil (hard 5.14a/8b+), that avoids the fingery boulder start. Now though Legrand has sent the full route, and this is what he had to say about the route:
François and Necessary Evil
Its slightly overhanging and takes a line up 35m of beautifully compact yellowish orange limestone. The rock is smooth and its a shame that some of the holds are polished already!
The climbing is similar to that found in Cimai (sector En un combat douteux)
But the edges are less positive! It tests both your finger strength and endurance, since the hard section through the overhang finishes after 20m. Then theres a relatively good rest which renders the 7c finishing slab not too precarious.
Between the first and the second bolt theres a violent, fingery boulder crux: V11/8a Font boulder. This is followed by 15m endurance with no easy moves that could constitute a rest, and two hard moves to reach the rest proper: many people fall at this point already!
by Nicola Noè