I don't like winter... the Andrich - Bianchet climb on Cima di Val di Roda, Dolomites

I don’t like winter, the nights are cold and long, there’s too much time for your mind to wander… but winter is magical, black and white transform to create the most beautiful color in the world that, mixed with fatigue and sweat, creates a sort of rainbow invisible to those who don’t climb mountains in winter. I don’t like winter but this year, after several program changes due to myself, to several companions and finally and not least due to the weather, I got "invited" by a Friend to "attempt" a line up the West Face of Campanile di Val di Roda, in the beautiful and famous Pale di San Martino, Dolomites.

A long approach, that’s the only information Renzo gave me about the "program".

I don’t like rucksacks in winter, they’re always heavy, bulky, uncomfortable and very, very big! The rucksack digs into my shoulders and while we wade through deep snow up towards the start of the Andrich-Bianchet route. Darkness sets in quickly but I, tired and cold, make the first move and "jump" into the sleeping bag, clothes and all! Renzo melts some water and makes some tea, I rest. He’s used to it, is a man of the Mountains, I come from the plains and... I don’t like winter!

Hot aches, a few rough words at the anchor while I belay my companion, the first pitch is always the first pitch, the coldest, ugliest, most difficult and the one where you already want to be at the summit. I don’t know why, but I got to do the first pitch!

The road takes a logical line, exploiting the best rock and the weakest points of the face: classic difficulties, grade four, five, a few pluses here and there, feet in boots are snug and warm, outside it's cold.

Now I could tell you about the climb and the succession of emotions, but I don’t like winter, as time passes I feel the urge for... Arco, Finale, Verdon, I feel the need for warmth!

We shake hands on the summit and back down in the valley, while eating some warm soup, we talk about the usual things, those of us who are bitten by the bug "WHAT ABOUT THAT ROUTE NEXT WINTER?"

"I don’t like winter, but I'll be there!"

Winter mountaineering, in it’s classic form, the one I like, is what You Marco loved so much. A year after your death, I’d like to dedicate our climb to you, our winter ascent, these two beautiful days to You who loved the Dolomites so much, a climb that does’t need a story, a beautiful route! This is all for you, Batch... My friend."

by Ivo Ferrari