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Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan on 15/03/2014 during the first ascent of Evolution (WI 5+ M9+).
Photo by archivio Wolfgang Hell, Pavol Rajcan
Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan below the icefalls Evolution (left) and La Piovra (right)
Photo by archivio Wolfgang Hell, Pavol Rajcan

Evolution new Dolomites ice and mixed climb in Vallunga by Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan

28.03.2014 by Planetmountain

On 15/03/2014 in Vallunga (Dolomites) Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan made the first ascent of Evoution, a new 120m ice and mixed climb with difficulties up to WI 5+ M9+.

Vallunga in the news once again. After the first ascent of Zweite Geige at the hands of Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner at the end of January, the small Dolomite valley above Val Gardena is in the limelight again thanks to Evolution, a new drip immediately to the left of the famous La Piovra.

In truth the first two pitches, that climb 60m of relatively easy ice, had already been climbed many years ago, but on 15 March local climbers Wolfgang Hell and Pavol Rajcan climbed the 10m of rock above to breach the steep roof. they placed three pegs to climb past difficulties estimated at M9+ and reach the curtain, from where a final pitch leads right to reach the abseil piste of La Piovra.

"We're really happy to have completed and redpointed this route" Hell told Planetmountain, adding "we reckon it's really beautiful and offers some difficult mixed climbing. Something for experts, that's why we've called it Evolution."

TOPO: Evolution, Vallunga, Dolomites


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