Dayantianwo first ascent in Shuangqiao Valley, China
In September an international climbing expedition comprised of Dave Anderson (USA), Chaohui Zheng (China) and Szu-ting Yi (Taiwan) completed the first ascent of Mt Dayantianwo (5220m) in the Shuangqiao Valley of Siguniang National Park in Sichuan China.
On 15/09/2013 Chaohui Zheng of China, Szu-ting Yi of Taiwan and American Dave Anderson climbed the 600m southwest face of Mt Dayantianwo (5220m) at 5.10 r/x, 60°. The three climbers had been part of a larger expedition organized by Zheng that attempted the peak earlier in the month, but were forced to abandon their initial attempt after a series of storms covered the rock peak with several feet of snow.
After a week long period of good weather that melted most of the snow the three climbers, along with Tibetan climber Laoyao Xu returned to their high camp at the base of Dayantianwo. The next day they started climbing two seperate routes on the southwest face. After 7 pitches the two teams routes intersected, Xu decided to descend and Zheng joined Yi and Anderson and climbed to summit and rappelled in the dark retuning to their high camp in a 16 hour round trip push. Yi and Anderson named their route "Three Sheep Bring Prosperity" for the Baharal Mountain Sheep that ran past them through fifth class terrain near the summit. Zheng named his variation "Top of a Dream."
Also in the Shaungqiao Valley Yi, Anderson and Chinese climber Yunching Liu established "Playing with Fire" a 500m route, 9 pitch 5.10- on the south ridge on Seerdengpu. The trio completed the route on 25/08/2013 with one bivy during the descent.
Shuangqiao Gou Valley by Dave Anderson
The Shuangqiao Gou Valley is one of the three main valleys found within Siguniang National Park which is 220km west of Chengdu China. The valley is 38 kilometers long and has a paved road that allows relatively easy access year round. A shuttle bus accesses not only to the base of the mountains, but there is a 25 mile boardwalk, small white water rafting operation and local artisans selling traditional hand crafts. During the winter the Shuangqiao GouValley is one of China’s premiere locations for climbing frozen waterfalls. While climbers have visited the area for decades, there are still many unclimbed alpine, big walls and even a few unclimbed peaks to climb. Permitting and fee rates are constantly changing in the Siguniang region and navigating the "red tape" can be as challenging as the climbing itself.