Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowMonaco di Clausura, new rock climb at San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily

Fabio Failla and Luigi Filocamo during the first ascent of Monaco di Clausura (5 pitches, 6c max, 6b+ oblig), Pizzo Monaco, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily.
Photo by Fabio Failla

Monaco di Clausura, new rock climb at San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily

16.07.2012 by Planetmountain

On 02/06/2012 Fabio Failla and Luigi Filocamo made the first ascent of Monaco di Clausura (5 pitches, 6c max, 6b+ obligatory) up the north face of Pizzo Monaco, San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily.

The 9am Rome - Palermo flight landed, Luigi phoned to ask where we'd meet and I told him I'd pick him up from the El Bahira campsite in about an hour. As soon as I got there I told him about a new line I'd noticed some time ago on Pizzo Monaco. Without me needing to repeat it he agreed so we prepared our gear and set off.

At the base of the route we racked up and started the climb beneath an overhang and tried to use as little in-situ gear as possible. We dashed up the first 30 metres and reached the base of a chimney, where we set up a bely on the left out of the way of falling stones.

We climbed easily up the chimney for 35m to reach the top of a pillar and set up belay on this beautiful natural balcony. From here the route continues with another 3 pitches, the grades are fairly similar and the climbing varies from cracks, corners, slabs and overhangs. The rock is particularly good quality apart from a few sections where it is still somewhat loose. The central section of the route is extremely exposed but offers plenty of good holds.

All the belays are equipped with bolts, as are the crux sections of the climb. The gear needs backing up with natural pro, nuts and camming devices. The climb faces north and can therefore be climbed even in intense heat as it remains in the shade for most of the day.

by Fabio Failla


ROUTE TOPO: Monaco di Clausura, San Vito Lo Capo

Share this page

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Diretta Consiglio
    Salita tanti anni fa, nel 1969, ovviamente senza friend (che ...
    2014-08-18 / renzo%20 Bragantini
  • Welcome to Tijuana
    Ieri sabato 02 agosto, io e il mio compagno Aldo Mazzotti, s ...
    2014-08-03 / Gianni Canale
  • Icterus
    Qualcuno ha qualche informazione sulla via sportiva Mr Berna ...
    2014-08-02 / Michele Marchesoni
  • La beffa
    Portare Camalot dal 0.3 fino al #1, anche qualche stopper. L ...
    2014-07-18 / Luciano Calvelo