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1. Trial (6b, 180m). 2. Due bottoni nel pozzo (7b, 160m). 3. Afa (6b+, 170m).
Photo by Rizzo
Christian Rizzo climbing the third pitch of Trial.
Photo by Rizzo

Photo by Rizzo

Rock climbing on Mongioie and Rocca dei Campanili, Italy

05.06.2012 by Planetmountain

Trial, Afa and Due bottoni nel pozzo. Three rock climbs located at 2000m on the beautiful South Face of Rocca dei Campanili in Piemonte, Italy, introduced by Mirko Rizzo.

Located up high in Italy's Tanaro valley in the Ligurian Alps, the south face of beautiful Mt. Mongioie offers a multitude of sport climbs from 5c - 7b+ on excellent limestone. Mongioie is in fact comprised of numerous faces and bastions and these include, starting from east Rocca Garba, Cima delle Colme, Rocca dei Campanili and Rocca del Manco with its obvious grotto at half height.

All these rock faces are extremely beautiful and while all routes are worth climbing, Rocca dei Campanili is certainly the most popular face thanks to the vast variety of routes and its exceptional rock quality. Discovered by Enrico Gallizio and partners at the end of 1980's, it was later developed by Manlio Motto who in 1993 established numerous bolt routes. New climbs have been added recently by Matteo Canova, Marco Pukli, Marco Schenone & Enrico Gallizio, while three well-equipped and beautiful routes were added to the righthand side of Rocca dei Campanili by Marco Valente e Christian Rizzo.

ROCCA DEI CAMPANILI - MONGIOIE

Trial (6b, 180m).
Beautiful rock climb in a superb setting which climbs through a section of the wall which has not yet been developed. In view of its relatively low grade and the excellent pro, Trial is already a classic "easy" outing.

Due bottoni nel pozzo (7b, 160m).
The first two pitches are demanding although somewhat sweeter thanks to the excellent bolting.

Afa (6b+, 170m).
Beautiful climb, slightly more difficult than nearby Trial.


Access: take the A6 Savona-Torino, exit at Ceva and continue for Garessio-Ormea to reach Ponte di Nava. Leave the main road SS28 at this point and drive up the Alta Valle Tanaro to Viozene and park here.
Approach: take the path from the church to Rifugio Mongioie. After 40 minutes reach this mountain hut and continue across the meadows to reach the bse of the wall (1.30 hours from the car). The route starts to the right of Nonno sprint, name written at the base.
Best time of year: May - October. In August take a windproof jacket due to the frequent afternoon fog
Accommodation
Rifugio Mongioie www.rifugio-mongioie.com
Holiday Apartments Villa Tanaro B&B (Ormea, Frazione Cantarana) www.villatanaro.com
Hotel / restaurant La Tramontana (Viozene) www.albergolatramontana.com

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