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The Riegler brothers during the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X-, Piz Ciavazes (Sella, Dolomites)
Photo by archivio Riegler
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Non ci resta che piangere, first free ascent by the Riegler brothers

17.01.2012 by Planetmountain

On 12/01/2012 Florian ande Martin Riegler made the first free ascent of Non ci resta che piangere IX+/X- (Sella, Dolomites).

A first winter ascent and, at the same time, the first free ascent of the route Non ci resta che piangere on Piz Ciavazes was carried out on 12 January by the South Tyrolean alpinists Florian and Martin Riegler. Established in the '90's by Edy Boldrin and Dario Feller, the route takes a line to the left of the famous Via Italia '61 up the South Face and up until a few days ago the lower section climbed difficulties up to 7a, while the two overhangs were breached with A2 aid. This may have given rise to the name, which translates as Nothing else to do but to cry.

After having received the go-ahead by the first ascentionists, the Riegler brothers reequipped the belays and substituted in part some of the original gear. On 12 January they returned to the face and succeeded in the first redpoint, despite the winter cold and some literally frozen holds.

According to the Riegler the difficulties are comparable to Via Italia '61 but "the protection is more demanding: the original pegs and bolts need to be used with caution, as they were intended for aid climbing." And, we feel we must add, while the lower section and the traverse beneath the roof are great, the rock on the final pitches is rather friable.


- Route details Non ci resta che piangere

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