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Bernd Zangerl, Vingsand pirates 8A
Photo by Radek Capek
Bernd Zangerl on Kingsize... 7C highball
Photo by Radek Capek

Bernd Zangerl bouldering in Norway with Northern Beats

30.11.2011 by Bernd Zangerl

Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl introduces the bouldering around Trondheim in Norway and presents his new film Northern Beats.

The bouldering close to Trondheim, on the half island Fosen, isn't just in magnificent places, the climbing itself is truly unique. Compared to Switzerland's Tessin or other areas there are less free standing boulders and most of the climbing is done in bays and caves which vary considerably in size. Only Harbak has some free standing, beautiful granite boulders. Most of the climbing is steep and powerful on the uniquely featured Norwegian granite and even the steepest caves have massive juggy problems, which means that body tension, not finger power, is the name of the game.

Finding the best sequences is not easy and time is needed to find the best way ip the bomber granite. I'd describe the climbing therefore not only as powerful but also creative. Those used to bouldering in the Tessin or Val di Mello will need to learn some new moves to send the interesting problems. I LIKE ;-)

During my trip, which also resulted in the film Northern Beats, I managed to repeat a few classic problems before focusing on new problems. My best first ascents include Kingsize... 7C highball;-) Troll city 8A, Propaganda 8B, Vingsand pirates 8A, Susi expert 8A+, Sunny side up 8A.

The potential here is enormous. I may well be mistaken but Norway has a circa 40,000km coastline... So there's more than enough to do here!

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