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David Lama high on Donnervogel, Sonnwand, Austria
Photo by archivio Lama
David Lama repeating Stoamanndl 8b Sonnwand, Austria
Photo by archivio Lama

David Lama repeats Alexander Huber routes on Sonnwand

09.11.2011 by Planetmountain

David Lama has made quick repeats of Stoamanndl 8b and Donnervogel 8b, first ascended by Alexander Huber, a few months after making the first repeat of Paciencia 8a on the North Face of the Eiger.

Just a few weeks after returning from a lengthy Himalayan expedition - which resulted in a new route up the NW Face of Cerro Kishtwar (6155m) - Austrian climber made swift work of two 8b Huber 8b multi-pitches, Stoamanndl and Donnervogel on the Sonnwand above the Loferer Alm.

Climbing with Peter Ortner, Lama first set his sights on the 250m, 8 pitch Stoamanndl: he on-sighted the first 8b pitch, slipped at the start of the second 7c+, quickly redpointed it and then climbed his way faultlessly to the top. He returned two days later, this time with Reini Scherer, for Donnervogel located just to the right and sent this quickly, needing only two redpoint attempts on the 4th and 5th pitches.

Both routes were established ground-up by Alexander Huber, Stoamanndl with Hellei Limmer and Donnervogel with Guido Unterwurzacher, and although bolted require a trad rack to integrate the pro. Lama's repoints are believed to be the first repeats.

Lama's latest ascents come just a few months after the first repeat of Paciencia on the North Face of the Eiger. This 8a multi-pitch had been established in 2003 by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck and was freed by the duo 5 years later. Lama repeated the 23 pitch route along with Peter Ortner at the end of August with a bivy and commented afterwards "It's hard to imagine just how big the North Face of the Eiger really is. I've always wanted to climb a route up this face and the first repeat of Paciencia is certainly one of my highlights. I've rarely climbed such a demanding route."

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