La Classica Moderna, new route on Mont Blanc by Barmasse and Pou brothers
On 1 August Hervè Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou established La Classica Moderna - The Modern Classic - up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Take two. Hervè Barmasse continues where he left off, with his project Exploring The Alps. After After having opened a route alone on Picco Muzio (Matterhorn) the Italian Mountain Guide has now completed the second stage of his tour, choosing another first-class corner, namenly the wild south Face of Mont Blanc. Unlike his April climb, this time Barmasse opted to climb with two other alpinists, the Spanish brothers Iker and Eneko Pou.
On 31 July the three ascended to Rifugio Monzino via Val Veny, then on 1 August they established their new "Modern classic" up the Left Pillar of Brouillard before continuing up via the long Brouillard ridge to reach the summit of Mont Blanc at midnight. After a spectacular bivy just beneath the summit the three descended the next day.
Barmasse recounted: "During a summer in which bad weahter and low temperatures high up in the mountain seem to have no end, with the Pou brothers we succeeded in establishing a new route up the South Face of Mont Blanc. The ascent resembled the ethics and philosophy of Walter Bonatti who, in 1959, was the first person to climb on the monoliths of this side of Mont Blanc. I would define the style as modern-classic; a style that mirrors those of the pioneers, who, to get back home, had to reach the top of Mont Blanc. Hence the name La Classica Moderna. The route is a clean-cut affair, no bolts, climbed in 11 pitches up to 6c with just camming devices and 4 pegs. Established and climbed free and, just like other great classics, continues all the way to the summit of Mont Blanc via the Brouillard to total 3300m vertical height gain."
Our congratulations obvioulsy go to the first ascentionists who, in short, will tell us more about this experience in a trio-interview...
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