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The Dente del Gigante (4013m), Mont Blanc
Photo by Planetmountain.com
The Dente del Gigante (4013m), Mont Blanc
Photo by Gianni Lanza
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Dente del Gigante - Mont Blanc

04.08.2011 by Planetmountain

The Dente del Gigante (4013m), a great classic in the Mont Blanc range, introduced by Gianni Lanza.

The Dente del Gigante high up in the Mont Blanc massif is a fascinating mountain, rich in history. Just like many other iconic peaks, right from its first ascent the giant's tooth was the centre of great adventures as well as polemics and controversies. Worth mentioning is an episode which revoleved around the famous and extremely talented British alpinist Albert Mummery. In August 1880 Mummery attempted to carry out the first ascent of this gigantic tower with the famous mountain guide Alexander Burgener, but the two were stopped by a smooth slab, at that time unclimbable. Mummery was certain: he left his alpenstock to testify their highpoint and a note, hidden in a crack, on which he wrote "Absolutely inaccessible by fair means". An "ethical" concept which has inspired alpinism right up to present day.

The Maquignaz who carried out the first ascent two years later, on 29 July 1882, confirmed the British purist's theory and in order to accompany their clients, the Sella, to the summit, numerous fixed ropes were needed. It was nevertheless a great achievement.

The normal route up the Dente del Gigante is partially equipped with large ropes to aid the ascent and over the years it has become one of the great classics in the Mont Blanc range. Often crowded, never technically difficult but nevertheless some may find the route complex and tiring. From the summit there is a sweeping panorama over the entire Mont Blanc range.

Dente del Gigante
Mont Blanc
Multi-pitch rock climbs on Grand Capucin, Trident du Aiguille du Midi, Pyramide du Tacul

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