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Smer Norckov, Site, Julian Alps, Slovenia
Photo by archivio Matic Obid
Les Intouchables 7c+, Mont Blanc
Photo by archivio Matic Obid

Matic Obid, a summer climbing in Slovenia and Croatia

03.08.2011 by Planetmountain

Slovenian climber Matic Obid has repeated a series of routes, from the Site rock face in the Julian Alps to Paklenica in Croatia, via Mont Blanc and also his first 8c at Sezana in Slovenia.

22-year-old Slovenian climber Matic Obid recently carried out an important ascent on the Site rock face in Val Planica in the Julian Alps. Much like many of the peaks in this mountain chain, the Planica valley is little known beyond Slovenia's border but it hosts high and wild limestone faces which, in time, have become home to a series of severe and important new routes. The likes of Emilio Comici and Angelo Dibona have left their mark here as well as legendary Mira Marta Debelakova and all the most important Slovenian alpinists.

At the start of July Obid repeated "Smer Norckov", established in 1983 by the highly taletend partnership comprised of Silvo Karo and Janez Jeglic. Originally graded VI+ A3, the route has been freed at 8a and Obid on-sighted the line on trad gear.

Before Smer Norckov, Obid had paid a visit to the Paklenica gorge in Croatia where he repeated the multi-pitch sport climbs Agricantus and Cupido, both 8a. At Osp he repeated Vrazji Robert 8b (with trad pro) before nipping to France and climbing Les Intouchables 7c+ on the Trident du Tacul (Mont Blanc). His ascent of Smer Norckov is the coronation of his efforts which also resulted in numerous hard sport climbs including Mr Big Hand and Kaj ti je deklica at Misja Pec 8b+.

In 2010 Obid was elected Slovenia's most promising young climber and alpinist and his recent repeat of "La via di mezzo" at Sezana - his first 8c - is further confirmation of his talent.

Slovenia's Julian Alps are certainly worth visiting and hopefully this brief report will stimulate other alpinists to climb in these beautiful yet demanding mountains which despite being easily accessible are unjustly neglected by most.

Wild Climb Alpine Team
Massimo Esposito

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