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Matt Helliker high up on the North Face of Mt. Hunter, Alaska
Photo by Helliker & Bracey
The North Face of Mt. Hunter, Alaska
Photo by Helliker & Bracey

Mount Hunter: new British route up Moonflower Buttress

23.05.2011 by Planetmountain

Over a 6 day period in May a small British team comprised of Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey established The Cartwright Connection, a new route up Moonflower Buttress on Mount Hunter in the Denali National Park, Alaska.

At present details are few and far between, but what is clear is that Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey have added an important new route to the North Face of Mount Hunter to the left of the famous Moonflower Buttress.

After having recced the wall for a single day and climbed the first 10 pitches, Helliker and Bracey returned to Base Camp in wait of a good forecast. They then climbed for four extremely intense days to join the Moonflower route, when a storm set in, pinning the two in their portaledge for a full day. At 9pm the following evening they sensed a lull in the storm and, out of rations and with few other options to choose from, they set off up the remaining 500m to reach the top of the Buttress.

Helliker stated "The climbing was hard, dangerous, scary, but beautiful and it took everything we had in our minds and arms to be successful. The last 36 hour push to the top off the North Buttress and the 38 abseils later to the base off the wall, were like an out off body experience I have never witnessed before."

The route has been named 'The Cartwright Connection' in memory of their good friend, the late Jules Cartwright who had the vision to attempt this line. More information to follow.

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