Tito Traversa, a summer and winter on the rise
A report of a summer and winter spent climbing by Tito Traversa who, aged nine, has now sent his first 8b, "Je est un autre" at Castillon (France)
The last time we talked about Tito Traversa was in April last year when the youngster managed to send his first 8a, at the tender age of 8. A little more than nine months have passed since then, during which we decided to follow his moves indirectly, leaving him the space he needs to enjoy himself, far away from the attention of this media. During this short period Traversa celebrated his 9th birthday and obviously continued to send one route after the next, so much so that he achieved new goals, with his first 7c+ on-sight this summer and his first 8a+ redpoint this autumn.
But Traversa's love for climbing, his determination and talent is such that a few days ago he upped the ante once more, sending "Je est un autre" at Castillon. The route is graded 8b, for some it may even be 8b+. Regardless of the grade, this is a great result - not only on a national level - which, with his father's consent, Tito now shares with us.
SUMMER AND WINTER CLIMBING by Tito Traversa
"This last year has been truly fantastic: in January 2010 the hardest routes I'd climbed were two 7c's and one 7b on-sight. Not even three months later, at the end of March and beginning of April, I sent my first two 8a's ("Faith" and "La diretta Basolo"). I then took part in a few competitions and won the Italian Lead and Bouldering events and placed second in the international Rock Junior.
During the summer holidays I managed to travel and so I climbed on-sight a lot: I on-sighted by first 7b+ (4 in all) at Arco, then I travelled to the Gorges du Tarn in France where I managed two 7c's ("Arachnide" and "Le plasir que demonte"). Céüse is incredible with loads of beautiful routes and there I on-sighted my first 7c+ ("Makach Walou") and sent an 8a second go ("Petit Tom") which adds to the 8a I climbed second go at the Gorges du Tarn.
It all seemed like a dream to me. I met loads of people who encouraged me, who congratulated me for the climbs. Mateusz Haladaj suggested I climb something harder and so, back at school once again, at the end of September I climbed "Il dominio di sé" 8a+ and in mid November "Sarre 2000" 8a+ at the crag Tetto di Sarre.
Unfortunately the cold temperatures stopped me from climbing anything else there and so I spent my Christmas holidays trying a route at Castillon which Enzo Oddo had recommended: "Je est un autre" 8b (+). But the route was half wet as there are some tufas on the first section, so when my holidays were over I returned, but it rained for two days and I couldn't even remove the quickdraws. I finally managed to get back there last weekend: the route was dry enough but I failed on Saturday, so I decided to skip the first competition to qualify for the Italian Championships and on Sunday I sent the route. I'm really happy, I still can't believe I've done it but I hope to continue like this, there are plenty of great routes I'd like to try..."
WONDERWALL - TITO TRAVESA AT CEREDO