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"Scharf, mit alles…"(WI6 M8, 600m, Stofer & Rathmayr) Gasterntal, Kandersteg, Switzerland.
Photo by Bernd Rathmayr
Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr on "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Photo by Bernd Rathmayr
  • Scharf, mit alles…
    "Scharf, mit alles…" (WI6 M8, 600m, Stofer & Rathmayr), Gasterntal, Kandersteg, Switzerland
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Long mixed climb in the Gasterntal close Kandersteg, Switzerland

30.12.2010 by Planetmountain

Over a four day period in winter 2007 the experienced Swiss ice climbers Markus Stofer and Bernd Rathmayr established "Scharf, mit alles…" in the Gasterntal close to Kandersteg in Switzerland.

Being in one of the coldest and darkest valleys of the confederation the route received little attention but is, according to Rathmayr "an interesting and unusual ice climb for the Bernese Oberland". At almost 600m Scharf, mit alles…" is one of the longest climbs of this genre in the Alps and ascends four distinct rock bands with difficulties up to WI6 M8

The two returned in January 2010 with the aim of redpointing the route in a single day and after a day checking out the lower section the redpoint came about in a mammoth 13.5 hour stint on 23 January. Rathmayr and Stofer not only fought hard to locate their bolts beneath the ice, they were also forced into inventing a short variation as some pitches on the upper original section were devoid of ice. 

The route received its first on-sight a day later at the hands of Nicolas Jacquet and Laurin Wiesmeier who wisely capitalised on the line cleaned the previous day. Given its vicinity to the famous Kandersteg area, perhaps the route will receive more attention in the near future.

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