Rock climbing in Val di Mello
Luna Nascente, Mani di Fata, Oceano Irrazionale and Vedova Nera, four fantastic rock climbs in the beautiful Val di Mello, introduced by Andrea Gaddi.
A beautiful, uncontaminated valley extends in lower Valtellina in Northern Italy: Val di Mello. This authentic alpine oasis in the heart of the Central Alps was recently made a Nature Reserve, and it is well known worldwide as the temple of friction climbing, as here this is exactly what is needed to deal with the smooth slabs and sharp rock crystals which lead, more often than not, ever upwards and distant from the last piece of pro.
This article examines four extremely famous, must-do rock climbs in Val di Mello which guarantee unforgettable, vertical emotions. They are doubtlessly a small suggestion for your future climbs....
How to get there
From Milan take the SS36 towards Sondrio-Tirano. At the village Ardenno (after Morbegno), head up into Val Masino. From here a typical mountain road leads in 15 minutes to San Martino, the starting point for all climbs in Val di Mello.
Numerous accommodation possibilities in Val di Mello, with two campsites (Sasso Remenno and Campeggio Ground Jack at the entrance to Val di Mello), various hotels (Hotel Miramonti, Genzianella, Centro Polifunzionale della Montagana) and also Bed & Breakfast Dolci (with shared kitchen). Within Val di Mello itself you can spend the night in Rifugio Rasega with its gracious, typical old climber's house.
Two 60m ropes. 10 quickdraws. Full trad rack. Hammer for the classic climbs.
Number of routes
Circa 300, from single pitches to long multi-pitch outings
Masino Bregaglia, Regno del granito, Volume II, by Andrea Gaddi. Polaris Ed. Sondrio. 2009.