Miracle Melloblocco
Melloblocco continues to be a great success. On Saturday 5 and Sunday 6 May more than 1000 boulderers gathered in Val di Mello for the 4th edition of the Melloblocco, the international bouldering meet organised by the Val Masino town council. As always, plenty of climbing, bouldering, parties, chance encounters and fun and games.
1, 2, 3... thud. Crimp left, edge right, smear left and... whack onto
the crash pad. The scene (infinite) repeats itself for countless,
identical takes. The actor changes. But the mantra remains the same: 1,
2, 3... thud. While the top remain elusive, indecipherable. At times
you could simply reach out, stretch on tip toes to grab the hold of
your desires. At other times you could simply walk round, hands in your
pockets, to conquest the boulder. But this evidently isn't the point.
And so things start all over again. 1, 2, 3... thud... 1 ,2, 3... Are
these boulderers crazy or what?
Melloblocco
year IV. A reconfirmation of a thousand variables and one single
certainty: those who can make something of all of this are great, those
who don't even bother to ask hit the jackpot. Or rather, the top, just
like Melloblocco 2007. How many thuds were registered this year no one
can say, they are uncountable. How many thousands of solution were
dreamt of and invented only the bouldering God or that of Val di Mello
knows (somewhere out there there must surely be a God who loves these
boulderers). What is certain is that in the end there were plenty of
tops, almost as many tops as smiles. Perhaps because bouldering, when
you least expect it, gives you something. Or perhaps because it counts
for less than that algebra of edges, microcrimps, slopers and smears
which at first glance seem incomprehensible: the theorem here is simply
believing in the impossible.
Impossible, like imagining how
the Melloblockers would have replied to the rain which arrived with
clockwork precision as forecast by the Swiss meteo. They was no single
answer... perhaps there wasn't even a real reason, but once again the
rule of opposites held true in the valley. Everyone knew about the rain
but no one cared. Not those 400 who reached Val di Mello on Friday
night. Nor the 1000 who Saturday morning got lost discovering the new
boulders dotted around Sasso Remenno. Nor all those who Saturday
afternoon opened their umbrellas to continue roaming through the
granite forest. Those who took shleted beneath the rocky roofs
definitely didn't notice the rain and continued to repeat their mantra.
And not even those who converted their crash pads into goal posts for
an unmissable game of football. And so the "wet" Melloblocco
transformed well beyond the climbing sphere. Beyond the grip one could
say. And also way beyond the party.
Talking about parties -
how do boulderers dance? This too is a question with a rather uncertain
answer. In the debut year of the White Party at Camping Remenno all
Melloblockers definitely gave it their best. There were those who
preferred to simply watch, beer in hand. There were those who swayed
gently to the beat of the drums. Those who got lost in the crowd. And
those who searched for perfect balance on the slackline - some managed,
like the legendary Nicolino and Brenna). There was a (really
impressive) woman who hypnotised all with her balls of fire. And there
were some who, in an attempt to imitate her, risked serious burns. And
there were also those who tried to drag the (tolerant) police officers
into the dancing vortex. Some freed all remaining energy (where does it
all come from) in the chaotic violent bumper car dance. Some were
dragged in to this crazy "dance". In the deep of the night many swore
that this was the best Melloblocco party ever... Perhaps climbers
aren't the best dancers, but certainly there's no holding them back.
No
one held back at the Melloblocco, from the biggest names in bouldering
(ever present, and always in plenty) to the youngest participants. The
champions, who are recognised by everyone, know all and camouflage
perfectly in the crowd and the boulders, search for that elusive top
like all the rest. Yes, their problems are harder, no, even more: they
are impossible. But they, the "big", always mange to pull the rabbit
out of the hat when you least expect it. Just like that child (a meter
high, give or take a bit) who climbed his boulder (a meter and a half
high, give or take a bit) and completed his masterpiece with a perfect
jump onto the crashpad. He then looked around happy, while his father,
watchful and watching his own problem, smiled back at him. A few
moments earlier that same boy had met Jack from Las Vegas, Amercian but
with Spanish origin walking on the green Val di Mello grass. The boy
was German but the two understood each other perfectly: perhaps he had
explained everything about the boulder which was a meter and a half
high, give or take a bit.
Jack is travelling for a year with
two other friends, via crags, boulders, mountains and historical
cities. They had prepared this journey for three years, studying
carefully where to go and working hard to earn the money for the trip.
He said he'd been to Fontainebleau, asked for information about
Kalymnos and confirmed with a massive grin that in Valle di Mello he
had discovered Europe's Yosemite. In that momet a ray of light
illuminated a small miracle of a desperate top with the final bursts of
strength down in the Sasso Remenno area. Nicola, an incorrigible
romantic boulderer) was then heard to say that, watching the effort had
brought tears to his eyes... Everyman's Melloblocco simply had no
limits...
Who knows what those boulders dotted around and above
Sasso Remenno though of the thousand boulderers who caressed them
gently. Who know what thoughts the breeze carried off, that breeze
which has caressed the smooth Val di Mello granite since time began.
Perhpas they're there, smiling. Asking themselves what it was all
about? And perhaps those rocks feel a tiny bit different after having
been the prima players of so many dreams, so much energy. They'll
definitely not forget... And in the silence of the valley they can
almost make out that 1, 2, 3... thud... Or perhaps it's someone left
behind, reciting that endless mantra.









