UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Recently the UIAA website has published an extensive document in both English and French that highlights the results and the conclusions the researchers have come to after years of work. Unfortunately, according to the text linked below, it seems as if only titanium (and therefore not even High Corrosion Resistant (HCR) steels) are suitable for crags located in places classified as being high risk. The document also identifies which locations are susceptible to stress corrosion cracking, and provides specific guidances for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers.
In the light of these results it is clear, as noted within the UIAA report, that bolting a crag in a marine environment now requires a significant financial investment that cannot be met free of charge by individual volunteers. The entire climbing community (or a representative body) must provide the funds for bolting and monitoring crags at risk of stress corrosion cracking.
by Maurizio Oviglia
DOWNLOAD FROM WWW.THEUIAA.ORG
- Download the press release in English
- Download the press release in French
Info: www.theuiaa.org
ARTICLES ON PLANETMOUNTAIN.COM
15/12/2014 - Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
11/06/2015 - Reequipping with 'marine' gear in Sardinia by Louis Piguet
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