On Thursday 26 October Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier made a 12 hour first ascent of "Bocconi amari" up the north Face of Triangolo nero, Monte Emilius, Valle d'Aosta.
The two describe Bocconi amari as being a beautiful mixed line which ascends narrow gullies, difficult rock and thin ice. Protection is demanding and few and far between and the face is solitary and isolated.
Marlier, who waited ten years for the route to come into perfect condition, is one of Italy's most prolific ice climbers, while Libera received national recognition last week for his ascents and his approach to mountaineering when he was awarded the prestigious Grignetta d'oro, together with Rolando Larcher.
MONTE EMILIUS (3559m), North Face
via BOCCONI AMARI
F.A.: Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26/10/2006
Description: beautiful and super demanfing mixed route: gullies, difficult rock, thin ice, protection demangin on compact rock, often of dubious quality and run-out. Isolated and solitary environment, psychologically highly demanding.
Getting there: from Aosta reach the famous Pila ski station. Park the car at the cable car top station, follow the path that leads to the Chamolè alpine meados to reach Col Fenêtre and descend into the beautiful and uncontaminated Comboè valley. Follow the steep long path to Federigo (3.5 hours from Pila). From the bivouac descend into the Arpisson valley towards Col Peccoz, coasting along the north face to reach the start of the route (1 hour from the bivouac).
Start: next to a gully on the extreme right of the black triangle bergschrund.
Descent: abseil down the route (check belays)
Top: Ezio Marlier in action on "Bocconi amari"
(arch. E. Marlier e R. Libera).