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La Bava della Sueur

First ascent: Marco Conti and Mirella Becciu 12/01/2013
By: Marco Conti
Area: Alta Val di Susa, Group: Rocce della Sueur Bardonecchia, Peak: Rocce della Suer Bardonecchia, Height: 1780m, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Beautiful new 70/80m route just above the classic Inattesa sorpresa. This year, the particlarly mild winter days resulted in this drip forming on the rock bastion. A perfect match for Inattesa Sorpresa, or ideal alternative when this is too crowded.


Reach Bardonecchia (Turin) via the Frejus motorway, then continue to Melezet, Pian del Colle (IGC 1 map, scale 1:50.000). Park your car at the top of Pian del Colle, close to the campsite, where the road ends in winter (access to this point is guaranteed by snow ploughs).


Snowshoes or skis are recommended to reach the waterfall. Set off in a SE direction (the other side of the road from the campsite), coasting the slope and forest. Quickly reach the edge of the cross-country skiing piste and follow this for a few meters to reach the obvious small road which leads off rightwards into the forest. Continue along this it ends, then continue up the hydrographic left of the river, past two cement water bridle on the left to reach the end of riverbed. At the end of this narrowing the valley widens and splits into two: head right, towards Canale della Grotta, past some yellow pinnacles (clearly visible from Pian del Colle). The slope now becomes significantly steeper here, pass the obvious start to the icefall Inattesa sorpresa and continue to the first vertical section which seems easy but is anything but simple.


P1: 20m, delicate face, vertical crust 85/90 ollowed by slope and possible belay on ice at the foot of the beautiful second pitch.
P2: 30m 80/85° at times vertical, up constantly hard ice, exposed to where the angle easens off, ice belay. If you have split the pitch reach the pine tree on the left from which you can abseil to the base of the route (sling left in-situ by the first ascentionists).


Abseil down the route.


Full ice climbing rack.

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