Solo per un sorriso - Croda di Cacciagrande
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Francesco Rigon
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Mirco Grasso
Beautiful four-pitch icefall set in the breathtaking Sorapiss group of the Dolomites
From Valbona, which can be reached from Auronzo di Cadore from the SR48 heading towards Misurina, park at the former hotel Cristallo 1350m.
AccessFrom here follow the path #217 up to the Rifugio Vandelli hut (winter bivouac with 6 places). Continue briefly along the path that leads to the Vandelli via ferrata, and as soon as the terrain opens out, head north. Walk past moraine debris, reach what remains of the central glacier and ascend the cirque to its summit (3-4 hours depending on snow cover). To gain the actual start you need to ascend the obvious gully / ramp on the left and cross moderately steep terrain rightwards to the base of the obvious icefall (1 hour, only with stable snow pack).
DescentAbseil down the route. The first abseil on pegs (40m). The second off Abalakov, to be equipped above the vertical wall of pitch 3 (55m) down to the first belay. Last abseil off pegs (60m).
Gear10 ice screws (also short ones) and a rack of cams (from 0.4 to 3 BD)
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