The routes

63
Routes in archive
Frëit dl mond
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Frëit dl mond - Sella
M7, VI+
Difficult new mixed climb in the Sella massif, put up by South Tyrolean alpinists Aaron Moroder and Alex Walpoth established. Climbed onsight and in 5 hours, route tackles one of the many faces on the left-hand side of Val Lasties,...
Geo
Climbing routes
Geo - Torre delle Mésules Est
7
This route is technical and demanding; the third pitch, which follows a difficult yellow slab and roof, is outstanding. The climbing is sustained 5/6 with a 7 crux (the roof on the third pitch). Strict ethics resulted in about 5/6...
Ghost Dog
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Ghost Dog - Sass Pordoi
WI6 XR/M5/6a, some pitches X and R
Great ice and mixed climb up the West Face of Sass Pordoi in the Dolomites, climbed over a two-day period after having fixed te first 150m of Via Fedele. On 3 December 2013 Corrado Pesce and Jeff Mercier climbed Via...
Gietl - Oberbacher
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Gietl - Oberbacher - Pizza Longata
WI 4
Great ice climb in Val de Mesdi, circa 300 mettere high, max WI 4, highly recommended
Giovanni Paolo II
Climbing routes
Giovanni Paolo II - Piz Ciavazes
6c
Great route up good rock, established by  B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co....
Hruschka
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù
WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...
Icterus
Climbing routes
Icterus - First Sella Tower

Beautiful route which offers technical and pumpy climbing up good to excellent rock. In 2009 the two mountain guides Alberto De Giuli and Renato Bernard re-equipped the routes with bolts, at times run-out, while the third pitch now ascends direct...
Iron Man
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Iron Man - Torre Murfrëit
V+, M7+, WI5+
Beautiful modern mixed route on Torre Murfrëit close to Passo Gardena in the Sella group, established by Santiago Padrós and Giovanni Andriano over two days, on 17 and 19 December 2019. According to Padròs this is one of the most...
Italia '61
Climbing routes
Italia '61 - Piz Ciavazes
8a
In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...
Jeo
Climbing routes
Jeo - Col de Stagn, Sella
7a
Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max). Of the three routes currently on this...
Malsiner Moroder
Climbing routes
Malsiner Moroder - IV Torre del Sella
V/VI
This classic route is not particularly popular, but unjustifiably so. It takes a central line up the solid yellow grey slabs and the middle pitches are very beautiful indeed. Well worth repeating
Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Mur del Pisciadù Eisfall - Mur del Pisciadù
V+/M6/WI6
The entire route offers varied climbing in a marvelous setting, but should not be underestimated by any means.
Non c'è due senza te
Climbing routes
Non c'è due senza te - Piz Ciavazes
7b
Interesting route put up by local mountain guide Renato Bernard and Petra Bernard in 2005. despite being entirely equipped with bolts, the route requires alpine experience due to the quality of the rock and the run-out gear.
Non ci resta che piangere
Climbing routes
Non ci resta che piangere - Piz Ciavazes
7a/A2
The route climbs between the obvious corner taken by Via Zeni and the arete of Via Italia 61, up a series of slabs and two alrge overhangs. The climbing is technical on yellow and grey limestone which is almost...
Once in a lifetime
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Once in a lifetime - Col Turont
WI6+, M8
Spectacular ice climb located opposite Jumbo Jet in Val de Lietres, Dolomitesi The route is also protected with bolts and pegs.
Oro e carbone
Climbing routes
Oro e carbone - Mur del Pissadu'
7a
This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur del Pissadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...


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